Hello All,
First and foremost, thank you all for the wealth of information shared
through this list,
Secondly, just my 2 cents regarding the clutch problems with the TR6
models. After reading many articles, talking to a number of people and
my own experiences with this car it appears that the spring pressure of
the after market pressure plates are to blame for many of the inherent
problems associated with the TR6.
I have compared the pressure required to actuate my clutch with a car
recently purchased by a friend. His 72 appears to be very unmolested and
don't have any idea what clutch recipe is used in his car. His clutch is
very smooth and easy to depress and doesn't affect how positive the
clutch operates. My car has a Borg and Beck disk and pressure plate that
I reused when I swapped engines but I did install the Toyota Land Cruiser
T/O bearing because of the bad press surrounding the after market T/O
bearings from the big 3. The clutch appears to work fine except that it
doesn't feel like it has completely released the disk from the flywheel
thus sometimes grinding of gears. I still need to check the red plastic
hose to see if it swells when the pedal is depressed. I am probably also
losing a little bit of leverage as the Toyota T/O has a larger diameter
at the pressure plate contact point than the T/O that was removed.
I have compared my clutch to other's cars and their's is also quite stiff
as compared to my friend's.
My feelings are that the added pressure of the Borg and Beck type product
could be blamed for early crank shaft thrust washer failure, expansion of
the red clutch slave pipe, enlargement of the clutch rod pivot holes on
the clutch and overdevelopment of my left calf muscle.
Could someone describe the force required on their "Magic Clutch" or
Sachs setup when compared to other's cars.
Thanks and enjoy the season,
Jay Welch, Abington MA
1971 TR6 project, 1973 TR6 driver
Member "Cape Cod British Car Club" @
http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
On Fri, 27 Jul 2001 05:49:44 -0400 jay_welch@juno.com writes:
>
> Thanks,
> Jay Welch - Abington, MA
> Member "Cape Cod British Car Club"
> http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
> 1971 TR6 project and 1973 TR6 driver getting closer to the street
>
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: jay_welch@juno.com
> To: jay_welch@juno.com
> Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 05:46:06 -0400
> Subject: Fw: Re: smooth ride, clutch stuff
> Message-ID: <20010727.054608.-276053.0.jay_welch@juno.com>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Jay Welch - Abington, MA
> Member "Cape Cod British Car Club"
> http://clubs.hemmings.com/capecodbritish/
> 1971 TR6 project and 1973 TR6 driver getting closer to the street
>
> --------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173@yahoo.com>
> To: 6pack@autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2001 12:00:42 -0700 (PDT)
> Subject: Re: smooth ride, clutch stuff
> Message-ID: <20010726190042.23586.qmail@web4602.mail.yahoo.com>
>
> The stock-grade throwout bearings have been complete junk for the
> past
> few years. No matter how you press them onto the sleeves, they fall
> apart in just a few thousand miles, if that. I went through 4 t/o
> bearings in a few months during 1997, and finally put in one of the
> heavy-duty bearings made for Toyota Land Cruiser. Haven't had a
> problem since. TRF sells this bearing as part of their "magic
> clutch"
> kit with Sachs components (probably the same part that your mechanic
> is
> using). Several TR parts suppliers are selling this kit. I would
> caution anyone who needs to replace a t/o bearing, don't use the
> standard grade bearings. I have heard nothing but complaints, and
> had
> several problems myself.
>
> Tim Holbrook
> 1971 TR6
>
> --- RPVanLuchene@lbl.gov wrote:
> > Well I got my car back the other day and the car drives
> > beautifully. Immediately noticed it as I drove away from the shop
> and
> > onto the Bay Bridge. It is amazing how tight it feels. THe tube
> > conversion kit was the one-piece bracket type with KYB gas shocks.
> I
> > also had new inner U joints put in and new diff mounts installed.
> Up
> > front I got new shocks and new upper ball joints. Along with my
> > recently
> > restored wheels with new Coker redlines, the car is one smooth
> ride,
> > with perfect stiffness. I don't know how I have gone this long
> with
> > my
> > old worn-out setup - I guess I diddnt know what a "right" car was
> > supposed to feel like -
> >
> > I'm also still having clutch disengagement problems and talked
> > to the mechanic about it. He's been working on TR's for 30 years
> and
> > never had a problem with TR clutches until recently, about the
> last
> > 2-3
> > years. The throw out bearings have been bad - he said he talked to
> > someone at TRF about it and they told him he was intalling the TO
> > bearing into the sleeve incorrectly (he uses wood to do this I
> think)
> > he said well OK you guys put the bearing in the sleeve your way
> > and send it to me and he'll install it in a car. Well the bearing
> > ended
> > up failing and they wouldnt take it back! I told him someone needs
> to
> > talk to the manufacturer about this, b/c I know of a lotta others
> who
> > are having the same problems. More recently he has been using
> > a Japanese TO bearing made by a company called AP with a Sachs
> > pressure
> > plate and standard or Sachs clutch plate. It seems to have been
> > working
> > well for his other customers.
> > I'm going to try it out in a few weeks - hopefully this will be a
> > solid
> > fix. Will update the list more on this as it progresses.
> > I hope to have it finished before the Monterey weekend. I plan on
> > going
> > to the Concorso Italiano and maybe some of the races.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Ryan
> > 6/71 Sapphire
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