Dave:
I believe the balast resistor controls the current going to the coil. On
start-up, more juice goes to the coil to help starting, then once the car is
started the current flows throught the resistor at a slightly lower rate.
(This may be all wrong, but I think I have the right idea...)
Some coils have an internal balast resistor, some do not. I think early
TR6's had coils w/ internal balast resistors, and the latter cars used a
balast wire to the coil. (Please verify this before disconnecting
anything.)
When I bought my Crane XR700, I bought a coil and new wires from them too.
The instructions stated to use the balast resistor that came with the coil
for my application. So I did, and things have been good for a long time.
My understanding that the difference bertween the XR700 and the XR3000 is
minor, so either one will be fine. Whichever system you choose, replace the
whole ign. system at the same time (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil). You'll
have to re-time it too. The whole deal takes an afternoon to do.
Expect a horsepower increase in the range of 30-40, at least, with this mod.
Add a 6" OD chrome exhaust tip for another easy 8 hp. (Just kidding, but do
look forward to never worring about points again!)
HTH,
Kevin
----------
>From: David Friedlander <forzion@maine.rr.com>
>To: "Kevin D. O'Connor" <oconnor@fuse.net>
>Subject: Re: Electronic Ignitions
>Date: Thu, Jan 25, 2001, 8:52 PM
>
> Kevin;
>
> A couple of weeks ago, you sent me the attached e-mail. You said you "added
the
> ballast resistor." Pardon my ignorance but what's a "ballast resistor?" To my
> question back then, I also heard back from another lister who said he's
running
> the Crane XR3000 and that "no ballast resistor is used." So, I'm a bit
confused.
> I still have a stock system and am tired of messing with the points. One the
> Crane wires don't you have to "cut your own" to length? Surprisingly , the
Crane
> box costs 50% more than the Pertronix, so I thought maybe one was better than
> the other.....
>
> Dave Friedlander
> Maine
> CF25194UO
> ==============================================
> "Kevin D. O'Connor" wrote:
>
>> This may or may not help you, but I've been running a Crane XR700 for about
>> 7 or so years now w/o any problems. I'm using a Crane "chrome" coil, and
>> followed the instructions with the kit and added the ballast resistor. As
>> far as wiring, the low tension end, I believe, does not change. For the
>> high tension end I am using Crane 8.5mm wires. For plugs, I switched about
>> 3 years ago to NGKBP5ES's, and I like them best of any I've tried. They
>> always look clean. Gap I think is slightly wider than stock for probably no
>> good reason.
>>
>> The Petronix usit is probably just as reliable than the Crane. There is a
>> spark-box with the Crane unit though, which will need mounting.
>>
>> Again, HTH
>> Kevin
>>
>> ----------
>> >From: David Friedlander <forzion@maine.rr.com>
>> >To: 6pack@autox.team.net
>> >Subject: Electronic Ignitions
>> >Date: Thu, Jan 11, 2001, 8:04 PM
>> >
>>
>> > OK guys;
>> >
>> > Dumb questions numbers 462-470. Didn't see anything posted to the VTR
>> > TR6 Maintenance Handbook pages so I have to ask: Is the Crane electronic
>> > ignition on a "par" with the Pertronix or is one significantly better
>> > than the other? Also, when I replace the current ignition with an
>> > electronic one shall I assume that the coil should be replaced with a
>> > high energy version? Will standard wiring suffice for electronic
>> > ignitions or are there known "weak links" in the TR6 wiring for high
>> > voltage ignitions? Are there any other component changes I should
>> > consider when going electronic? In a given engine, barring any other
>> > changes, would spark plugs be gapped wider for electronic ignitions?
>> >
>> > Dave
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