Sounds like you're doing everything right. The picture shows the correct
bearing for a 1275 and the bearing surface on the pressure plate looks OK too.
So maybe you just got a bad one throw out bearing. ??
Rick
> On Jul 11, 2021, at 8:48 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:
>
> As fas as the clutch, I press it as little as possible. I am to lazy to
> leave my foot on it at a red light and I am off of it as quickly as I can be.
> I was warned to not rest my hand on the shift lever as well so have never
> picked up that habit.
>
> Thanks, Phil
>
>> On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:45 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:
>> Thanks. I must not have put the paper clip on correctly. This time should
>> work![cid:9B1B96E1-0F23-4595-8637-F657543E560B-L0-001][cid:6D71CD1B-A4C6-490A-9F37-327AE89F9AE6-L0-001][cid:50146577-C036-4D7E-8D20-30305E841A5A-L0-001]
>> Thanks, Phil
>> On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Forgot the pictures Phil. :-)
>> Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your
>> driving technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing
>> failure. The only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If
>> the pressure plate is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures.
>> Rick
>> On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:
>>  So, the engine is out and �. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely
>> by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I
>> can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto
>> Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few
>> pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one
>> I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is
>> clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate
>> where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will
>> be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a
>> new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving?
>> Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice!
>> On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Phil,
>> Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There
>> are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine.
>> Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference.
>> Rick
>> <image0.jpeg>
>> On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets
>> <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be.
>> The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage
>> transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been
>> replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car.
>> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the
>> overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission,
>> and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic
>> system.
>> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not
>> working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump
>> the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it
>> into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting
>> it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could
>> with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but
>> no real change.
>> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of
>> pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master
>> but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and
>> none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on
>> Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some
>> have successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same
>> transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic
>> part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like
>> the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from
>> what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need
>> to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would
>> need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf?
>> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than
>> perhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am
>> getting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough
>> movement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission.
>> Open to any and all input!
>> Thanks, Phil
>> Thanks, Phil
>> ------------------------
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>> <image1.jpeg>
>> <image2.jpeg>
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