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Forgot the pictures Phil. :-)
Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your drivin=
g technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The=
only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure p=
late is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures.
Rick
> On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF So, the engine is out and =E2=80=A6. The clutch plate was in cor=
rectly. Purely by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is=
still open. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will vis=
it British Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I hav=
e attached a few pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bea=
ring and the one I pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in=
there and it is clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of th=
e pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer t=
rust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on wh=
at would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving?
>=20
> Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice!
>=20
>=20
>>> On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:=
>>>=20
>> =EF=BB=BF
>> Hi Phil,
>>=20
>> Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? Th=
ere are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine.=
Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference.
>>=20
>> Rick
>>=20
>> <image0.jpeg>
>>=20
>>=20
>>> On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets <spridgets@autox.=
team.net> wrote:
>>>=20
>>> =EF=BB=BF
>>> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be=
. The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage trans=
mission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been replace=
d over the 20 years I have owned the car. =20
>>>=20
>>> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce=
the overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmissi=
on, and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraul=
ic system. =20
>>>=20
>>> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly=
not working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to p=
ump the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get=
it into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarti=
ng it in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I cou=
ld with my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, b=
ut no real change. =20
>>>=20
>>> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs o=
f pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the mast=
er but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, a=
nd none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on Tue=
sday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have s=
uccessfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same trans=
mission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic part w=
ork? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like the ru=
bber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from what a=
ppears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be f=
emale) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need to=
be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? =20
>>>=20
>>> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than pe=
rhaps a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am g=
etting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough mo=
vement to fully disengage the engine from the transmission. =20
>>>=20
>>> Open to any and all input!
>>>=20
>>> Thanks, Phil
>>>=20
>>> Thanks, Phil
>>> ------------------------
>>>=20
>>> spridgets@autox.team.net
>>>=20
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation: $12.75
>>>=20
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/=
archive
>>>=20
>>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/refi=
sk@chartermi.net
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr">Forgot the pictures Phil. &=
nbsp;:-)</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Do you keep your f=
oot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your driving technique, b=
ut riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The only tim=
e I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure plat=
e is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures.</div><div d=
ir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Rick</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockq=
uote type=3D"cite">On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@ms=
n.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div di=
r=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">
So, the engine is out and =E2=80=A6. The clutch plate was in correctly. Pure=
ly by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still o=
pen. I can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit Briti=
sh Auto Works tomorrow and confirm that I
have the right one. I have attached a few pictures, the first is a si=
de view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I pulled. Same profile. Nex=
t is a few of the TO that was in there and it is clearly failing. Why=
? Last is a picture of the back of the
pressure plate where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer tr=
ust it, it will be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on wha=
t would make a new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving?
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice!<br>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk <ref=
isk@chartermi.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Phil,</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the cor=
rect unit? There are three different throwout bearings available for t=
he A-series engine. Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the=
difference.</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Rick</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div><image0.jpeg></div>
<br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Sprid=
gets <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;;">
I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be.&nb=
sp; The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage tran=
smission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been r=
eplaced over the 20 years I have owned
the car. </p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;; min-height: 12px;">
<br>
</p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;;">
Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the=
overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission, a=
nd a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic sy=
stem. </p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;; min-height: 12px;">
<br>
</p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;;">
Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not=
working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump=
the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it=
into reverse if I went to the
path of turning off the motor and restarting it in reverse. Not a pla=
ce I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with my EZ-Bleed and=
tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no real change.=
</p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;; min-height: 12px;">
<br>
</p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;;">
I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of pi=
tting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master b=
ut turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and n=
one for the slave cylinder.
As I wait for the local shop to open on Tuesday, I looked around on this si=
te and others, and it seems that some have successfully applied the smaller c=
ylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same transmission, bolts up but needs a sho=
rter pin, but how does the hydraulic
part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars?&nb=
sp; I like the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to c=
over from what appears to be a <span dir=3D"ltr">7/16</span> fine t=
hread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need to be
female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would need t=
o be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf? </p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;; min-height: 12px;">
<br>
</p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;;">
Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhap=
s a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am g=
etting movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough mo=
vement to fully disengage the engine
from the transmission. </p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;; min-height: 12px;">
<br>
</p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;;">
Open to any and all input!</p>
<p style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-size: 11px; margin: 0px; fo=
nt-stretch: normal; line-height: normal; font-family: "Helvetica Neue&q=
uot;; min-height: 12px;">
<br>
</p>
<div style=3D"-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; font-family: "Helvetica N=
eue", Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;">
Thanks, Phil</div>
<br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Thanks, Phil</div>
<span>------------------------</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>spridgets@autox.team.net</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br>
<span>Suggested annual donation: $12.75</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.te=
am.net/archive</span><br>
<span></span><br>
<span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/spridgets/re=
fisk@chartermi.net</span><br>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div></blockquote></body></html>=
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spridgets@autox.team.net
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/spridgets http://autox.team.net/archive
--===============2963785068782466828==--
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