As fas as the clutch, I press it as little as possible. I am to lazy to leave
my foot on it at a red light and I am off of it as quickly as I can be. I was
warned to not rest my hand on the shift lever as well so have never picked up
that habit.
Thanks, Phil
> On Jul 11, 2021, at 5:45 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks. I must not have put the paper clip on correctly. This time should
> work![cid:9B1B96E1-0F23-4595-8637-F657543E560B-L0-001][cid:6D71CD1B-A4C6-490A-9F37-327AE89F9AE6-L0-001][cid:50146577-C036-4D7E-8D20-30305E841A5A-L0-001]
>
> Thanks, Phil
>
> On Jul 11, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:
>
> 
> Forgot the pictures Phil. :-)
>
> Do you keep your foot on the clutch at red lights? I don't know your driving
> technique, but riding the clutch can cause premature bearing failure. The
> only time I push the clutch pedal down is to shift gears. If the pressure
> plate is bad it can cause failure. we need to see the pictures.
>
> Rick
>
> On Jul 11, 2021, at 6:09 PM, Phil Sarikas <psarikas@msn.com> wrote:
>
>  So, the engine is out and �. The clutch plate was in correctly. Purely
> by luck but sometime that is ok. The question Rick asked is still open. I
> can say that it is the same as the TO I replaced but will visit British Auto
> Works tomorrow and confirm that I have the right one. I have attached a few
> pictures, the first is a side view of a very trashed TO bearing and the one I
> pulled. Same profile. Next is a few of the TO that was in there and it is
> clearly failing. Why? Last is a picture of the back of the pressure plate
> where the TO connects. It feels smooth but as I no longer trust it, it will
> be replaced and a new TO placed back in. Any thoughts on what would make a
> new TO die in less than 100 miles of driving?
>
> Thanks again for all the help, questions and advice!
>
>
> On t maJul 5, 2021, at 12:35 PM, Rick Fisk <refisk@chartermi.net> wrote:
>
> 
> Hi Phil,
>
> Are you sure you replaced the throwout bearing with the correct unit? There
> are three different throwout bearings available for the A-series engine.
> Photo below from Gerard's Garage website shows the difference.
>
> Rick
>
> <image0.jpeg>
>
>
> On Jul 5, 2021, at 3:19 PM, Phil Sarikas via Spridgets
> <spridgets@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I need the help of this group to get my clutch working as well as can be.
> The car is any early 67 sprite with a 1275 and the standard ribcage
> transmission. At this point, everything in the hydraulic system has been
> replaced over the 20 years I have owned the car.
>
>
> Over the winter/spring, I had the engine out and did some work to reduce the
> overall oil leaks and did replace the needle bearings in the transmission,
> and a new throwout bearing but nothing that opened up the clutch hydraulic
> system.
>
>
> Put it all back together and went for a drive and the clutch was clearly not
> working correctly, I could get it to shift but it often required me to pump
> the clutch several times to get it to shift correctly and could only get it
> into reverse if I went to the path of turning off the motor and restarting it
> in reverse. Not a place I can stay. I bled it as completely as I could with
> my EZ-Bleed and tried it again. I wish I could say it was better, but no
> real change.
>
>
> I have pulled the slave cylinder, no signs of leaks, and no real signs of
> pitting in the cylinder, and I was going to rebuild it as well as the master
> but turns that my box of parts has 2 seal kits for the master cylinder, and
> none for the slave cylinder. As I wait for the local shop to open on
> Tuesday, I looked around on this site and others, and it seems that some have
> successfully applied the smaller cylinder from a 1098 on the 1275, same
> transmission, bolts up but needs a shorter pin, but how does the hydraulic
> part work? There is no equivalent rubber pipe on the earlier cars? I like
> the rubber connection so I would need some work of an adapter to cover from
> what appears to be a 7/16 fine thread (20?) on the pipe (adaptor would need
> to be female) To a 3/8 fine (24?) On the 1098 slave cylinder (adaptor would
> need to be male). Is there such an adapter off the shelf?
>
>
> Is there a downside to the smaller diameter slave cylinder other than perhaps
> a bit more force to move the pedal? I did check with a camera, I am getting
> movement as soon as the clutch pedal is depressed, just not enough movement
> to fully disengage the engine from the transmission.
>
>
> Open to any and all input!
>
>
> Thanks, Phil
>
> Thanks, Phil
> ------------------------
>
> spridgets@autox.team.net
>
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