I'm ready to retreat to my Anderson shelter, rusty though it may be, but I
have used nothing but Castrol 20-50 in the engines of my Triple M cars for
at least 12 years with no adverse results.
For what its worth!
Cheers, "Bob".
> From: Richard.Morbey@taywood.co.uk
> Reply-To: Richard.Morbey@taywood.co.uk
> Date: Fri, 1 Dec 2000 14:59:39 +0000
> To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net, tnishio@adv.mei.co.jp
> Subject: RE: ENGINE OIL
>
> Dear MMMers
>
> I was interested in Hiro Nishio's enquiry, not because I can offer an
> answer, but because I too am seeking after knowledge.
>
> It's often said that straight monograde oils as supplied by Penrite,
> Castrol Classic etc. are preferable for cast in white metal bearinged
> engines. My own P type has an interesting (but commonplace) combination
> of:
>
> a) Phoenix crank with white metal mains but Cooper S shell bearings
> b) Overhead camshaft with the usual white metal bearings
>
> The engine has been thoroughly rebuilt with new components (do our North
> American friends describe this as a "tear down"? - sounds painful!) and
> the unit has been totally cleansed, so it is "as new".
>
> The oil that I am using for the initial bench running is Castrol
> old-style GTX (not the more recent "Magnatec" version) which Peter Green
> of MMM Register fame uses in all his road-going cars including the Cream
> Cracker P type, (but not in his racers, where Castrol R is preferred).
>
> I intend to use my P type as a road car, so do not need a rocket science
> solution, but any guidance that folks can offer would be gratefully
> received.
>
> Regards to all
> Dick Morbey
> (Buckinghamshire, UK)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: tnishio@adv.mei.co.jp [mailto:tnishio@adv.mei.co.jp]
> Sent: Friday 01 December 2000 09:28
> To: mg-mmm@autox.team.net
> Subject: ENGINE OIL
>
>
> Dear Friends,
>
> In Japan, it has been almost impossible to get any single grade engine
> oil for
> 5-10 years. Since all of my English MMM friends suggests me to use SAE30
> in
> winter and SAE40 in summer to MMM OHC engine, I had to ask my friend's
> trading
> company to import BP-HD40 (need special license, so I can't import it by
> myself)
> and used it for long time. It was very very expensive but no other way,
> however
> I ended up with the crack on the main bearing and then No.1 big end
> metal has
> gone.
>
> Recently some suggestion come to me from Japanese friends. One
> recommends to use
> multi grade like BP Classic (20W-60), and another who uses FIAT 509
> (1935)
> strongly suggests to use synthetic oil (Mobil 1) with 5% gear oil (SAE90
> or 140)
> added.
> He says synthetic oil is very effective to keep the firm oil film on all
> the
> surface inside engine although it tends to leak more than mineral oil.
> The key
> is to add 5% gear oil, he emphasizes.
>
> Does anyone give some idea about this issue? For your ref, I am trying
> BP
> Classic now for my J2. The engine was rebuilt by myself with little
> tight
> (3/100mm) clearance on big ends and rear main white bearings some
> 1800miles ago,
> it gives 80+ pressure on the gauge in high rev, 30-40 in idling when
> very warm
> after 1-2 hours non-stop drive on the highway at 50-60mph, but I don't
> like its
> quite "dull" feeling then.
>
> Any suggestion welcome. Thank you.
>
> Hiro Nishio
> Kobe, Japan
> J2 4302
> British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
> MMM list subscription info: http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
>
>
>
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> British Cars Web: http://www.team.net/sol
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