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Re: [Healeys] BN2 back axle

To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 back axle
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Mar 2024 09:37:06 -0400
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <14381424.8830247.1710706416446.ref@mail.yahoo.com> <14381424.8830247.1710706416446@mail.yahoo.com> <2a0ef926-12cd-4172-a6f4-a403c3c54c1a@earthlink.net> <CAPTa0B6JO4w8OmfJEjNQafqMqjYkoT0uRgcWW8TnESA6HRGx5Q@mail.gmail.com> <ea09abd1-ca41-4459-a446-28f20ad46d81@comcast.net> <1818672028.4680724.1710783920610@mail.yahoo.com> <CAL28cLUvybn2OWGKy+E4=PSWERNZOuxcMRdcB3fq4UJAw=T7Tw@mail.gmail.com> <48545b04-992e-4986-bfd2-b5d4ebc8f55b@comcast.net>
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The later hubs are the same other than the "O" ring groove of which there
were 2 types as I recall. A machine shop can easily cut an "O" ring groove
in the hub face of earlier hubs.
If you assemple everything dry, no gasket, and lightly snug the nuts up
with spacers or washers to prevent the threads from bottoming out you can
take a measurement with feeler gauges then subtract the thickness of the
gasket.
The original gaskets were *very* thin.
The purpose of the "nip" was to prevent the outer race turning in the hub.
These days the same result can easily be achieved with Locktite which
allows a thicker gasket to be used although that can make the bearings
somewhat difficult to remove from the hub next time.

M


On Sat., Mar. 23, 2024, 9:11 a.m. Bob Spidell, <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote=
:

> Just to confirm: Hubs from a later car, say, a BJ8 will completely
> interchange with a BN2 hub?
>
> How would one determine a correct gasket thickness? There's no way, IIRC,
> to get a feeler gauge in there.
>
> TIA,
> Bob
>
> On 3/23/2024 5:25 AM, john harper wrote:
>
> Gary
>
> The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate machining of
> the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing width.
> Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of correct
> thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip the bearing
> outer from turning in its housing.
>
> This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra grove was
> machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring th=
at
> will seal the gap between the hub and half shaft. This will seal a wide
> range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a good grip
> on the bearing outer.
>
> If available the best solution is to find hubs for later big Healey and
> fit these together with 'O' rings.
>
> Another solution is to run a continuous ring of liquid gasket around the
> face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal on
> early BN1 hubs.
>
> All the best
>
> On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gaske=
t
>> must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.
>> The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I
>> made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20
>> years!
>> Gary Hodson
>>
>> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <
>> bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
>> bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm n=
ot
>> sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but somethi=
ng
>> to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the requisite torque =
on
>> the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; knocking it on with =
a
>> hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large sock=
et
>> and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
>>
>> Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't
>> tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the
>> 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't
>> recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of
>> this job I went for 'premium.'
>>
>>
>> On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>>
>> What Bob says.
>>
>> The inner seal on the axle is the critical piece and if there is wear on
>> the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repa=
ir
>> piece.
>> BTW SKF and others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed bearings
>> with plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but sin=
ce
>> the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they
>> are supposed to get lubrication.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink=
.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.  No grease.  Oil
>> flows between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the
>> bearing.  Yes, the paper gasket has to be oil tight.  The oil seal keeps
>> the oil from lubricating the brake shoes.
>>
>> Bob Haskell
>> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>>
>> On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>>
>> Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are
>> inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease?=
 (
>> the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tel=
l
>> you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). I=
s
>> the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearin=
g?
>> If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will
>> need to be oil tight.
>>
>> Thanks in advance for any help.
>>
>> Mike Brooks
>> 56 BN2
>> Scotland
>>
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>

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<div dir=3D"auto">The later hubs are the same other than the &quot;O&quot; =
ring groove of which there were 2 types as I recall. A machine shop can eas=
ily cut an &quot;O&quot; ring groove in the hub face of earlier hubs.<div d=
ir=3D"auto">If you assemple everything dry, no gasket, and lightly snug the=
 nuts up with spacers or washers to prevent the threads from bottoming out =
you can take a measurement with feeler gauges then subtract the thickness o=
f the gasket.</div><div dir=3D"auto">The original gaskets were <u>very</u> =
thin.</div><div dir=3D"auto">The purpose of the &quot;nip&quot; was to prev=
ent the outer race turning in the hub. These days the same result can easil=
y be achieved with Locktite which allows a thicker gasket to be used althou=
gh that can make the bearings somewhat difficult to remove from the hub nex=
t time.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div><div dir=
=3D"auto"><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" c=
lass=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat., Mar. 23, 2024, 9:11 a.m. Bob Spidell, &lt;<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>=
</div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-l=
eft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><u></u>

 =20
   =20
 =20
  <div>
    Just to confirm: Hubs from a later car, say, a BJ8 will completely
    interchange with a BN2 hub?<br>
    <br>
    How would one determine a correct gasket thickness? There&#39;s no way,
    IIRC, to get a feeler gauge in there.<br>
    <br>
    TIA,<br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <div>On 3/23/2024 5:25 AM, john harper
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type=3D"cite">
     =20
      <div dir=3D"ltr">Gary
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate
          machining=C2=A0of the depth of the bearing location and an accura=
te
          bearing width. Tolerances=C2=A0are very tight and it is hoped tha=
t
          a gachet of correct thickness will make a good oil seal and at
          the same time grip the bearing outer from turning in its
          housing.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>This problem was addressed=C2=A0by the manufacturer=C2=A0and a=
n extra
          grove was machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is
          fitted an &#39;O&#39; ring that will seal the gap between=C2=A0th=
e hub and
          half shaft. This will seal a wide range of tolerances and at
          the same time ensure that there is a good grip on the bearing
          outer.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>If available the best solution is to find hubs for
          later=C2=A0big Healey and fit these together with &#39;O&#39; rin=
gs.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>Another solution=C2=A0is to run a continuous ring of
          liquid=C2=A0gasket around the face of the hub before assembly. Th=
is
          is also the only effective seal on early BN1 hubs.</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>All the best</div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <div class=3D"gmail_quote">
        <div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02,
          warthodson--- via Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.tea=
m.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>&gt;
          wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
          <div>
            <div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Comic Sans MS&quot;,sans-serif;=
font-size:16px">
              <div dir=3D"ltr">The work shop manual refers to a specific
                dimension that the paper gasket must stand proud of the
                steel ring spacer.</div>
              <div dir=3D"ltr">The gaskets that I received from a well
                known supplier were too thin. I made my own &amp; have
                never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20
                years!</div>
              <div dir=3D"ltr">Gary Hodson</div>
              <div><br>
              </div>
            </div>
            <div id=3D"m_6957726947611017760m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60=
cyahoo_quoted_1217414981">
              <div style=3D"font-family:&quot;Helvetica Neue&quot;,Helvetic=
a,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
                <div> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob
                  Spidell &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; targe=
t=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">bspidell@comcast.net</a>&gt;
                  wrote: </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div><br>
                </div>
                <div>
                  <div id=3D"m_6957726947611017760m_-3944875174496281455ydp=
662d60cyiv6546823410">
                    <div> Tom Monaco told me he&#39;s replaced a large
                      number of spun axle bearings--IIRC he said &#39;a
                      hundred&#39; or so--over the last few years. I&#39;m =
not
                      sure exactly what you&#39;d look for that presages
                      that problem, but something to keep in mind. It&#39;s
                      not particularly easy to get the requisite torque
                      on the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner
                      race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel
                      isn&#39;t a good solution (I use a purpose-made large
                      socket and a 3/4&quot; air impact driver). They can
                      spin in the hub as well.<br clear=3D"none">
                      <br clear=3D"none">
                      Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a &#39;premium&#=
39;
                      for $21.99; I couldn&#39;t tell you the difference
                      except the cheap one is a &#39;no name&#39; and the
                      &#39;premium&#39; was a (generally) good brand (maybe
                      Timken or SK; I don&#39;t recall). Worth it or just
                      &#39;marketing?&#39; Beats me, but given the hassle o=
f
                      this job I went for &#39;premium.&#39;<br clear=3D"no=
ne">
                      <br clear=3D"none">
                      <br clear=3D"none">
                      <div id=3D"m_6957726947611017760m_-394487517449628145=
5ydp662d60cyiv6546823410yqtfd89942">
                        <div>On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:<br =
clear=3D"none">
                        </div>
                        <blockquote type=3D"cite"> </blockquote>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <div>
                      <div id=3D"m_6957726947611017760m_-394487517449628145=
5ydp662d60cyiv6546823410yqtfd78669">
                        <div dir=3D"ltr">
                          <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">What Bob
                            says.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>
                          <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br clear=3D"=
none">
                          </div>
                          <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">The inner
                            seal on the axle is the critical=C2=A0piece and
                            if there is wear on the sealing surface you
                            will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar
                            repair piece.</div>
                          <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">BTW SKF and
                            others make what=C2=A0they=C2=A0call semi-seale=
d or
                            sealed bearings with plastic or fibre pieces
                            on one or both sides of the bearing but
                            since the sealed ones are not filled with
                            oil I have never understood how they are
                            supposed to get lubrication.</div>
                          <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br clear=3D"=
none">
                          </div>
                          <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
                            Oritt</div>
                          <div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0</div>
                        </div>
                        <br clear=3D"none">
                        <div>
                          <div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06=E2=
=80=AFPM
                            Bob Haskell &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailt=
o:rchaskell@earthlink.net" rel=3D"nofollow noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">rc=
haskell@earthlink.net</a>&gt;
                            wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                          </div>
                          <blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bor=
der-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
                            <div>
                              <p>Mike,</p>
                              <p>The bearings are lubricated with the
                                rear axle oil.=C2=A0 No grease.=C2=A0 Oil f=
lows
                                between the axle shaft and the axle
                                housing to around to the bearing.=C2=A0 Yes=
,
                                the paper gasket has to be oil tight.=C2=A0
                                The oil seal keeps the oil from
                                lubricating the brake shoes.<br clear=3D"no=
ne">
                              </p>
                              <pre>Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
                              <div>On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via
                                Healeys wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
                              </div>
                              <blockquote type=3D"cite"> Can someone
                                explain how the hub oil seals are meant
                                to work. They are inbord of the hub
                                bearings. Are the hubs meant to be
                                packed with grease? ( the service manual
                                suggests they should, but the same
                                manual doesn&#39;t tell you to pack the hub
                                with grease when changing hub bearings
                                and seals). Is the back axle oil
                                intended to pass across the oil seal to
                                the hub bearing? If so, then the paper
                                gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft
                                joint will need to be oil tight.
                                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                                </div>
                                <div>Thanks in advance for any help.</div>
                                <div><br clear=3D"none">
                                </div>
                                <div>Mike Brooks</div>
                                <div>56 BN2</div>
                                <div>Scotland</div>
                                <div><br>
                                </div>
                              </blockquote>
                            </div>
                          </blockquote>
                        </div>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                </div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
        </blockquote>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
  </div>

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