--===============6869292998015049107==
--000000000000831da906145309bc
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Gary
The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design relying on very accurate machining of
the depth of the bearing location and an accurate bearing width.
Tolerances are very tight and it is hoped that a gachet of correct
thickness will make a good oil seal and at the same time grip the bearing
outer from turning in its housing.
This problem was addressed by the manufacturer and an extra grove was
machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fitted an 'O' ring that
will seal the gap between the hub and half shaft. This will seal a wide
range of tolerances and at the same time ensure that there is a good grip
on the bearing outer.
If available the best solution is to find hubs for later big Healey and fit
these together with 'O' rings.
Another solution is to run a continuous ring of liquid gasket around the
face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal on
early BN1 hubs.
All the best
On Mon, 18 Mar 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> The work shop manual refers to a specific dimension that the paper gasket
> must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.
> The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were too thin. I
> made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so far, 15-20
> years!
> Gary Hodson
>
> On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spidell <
> bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
> bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few years. I'm no=
t
> sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that problem, but somethin=
g
> to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get the requisite torque o=
n
> the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner race; knocking it on with a
> hammer and chisel isn't a good solution (I use a purpose-made large socke=
t
> and a 3/4" air impact driver). They can spin in the hub as well.
>
> Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I couldn't
> tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no name' and the
> 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or SK; I don't
> recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, but given the hassle of
> this job I went for 'premium.'
>
>
> On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt wrote:
>
> What Bob says.
>
> The inner seal on the axle is the critical piece and if there is wear on
> the sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or similar repai=
r
> piece.
> BTW SKF and others make what they call semi-sealed or sealed bearings wit=
h
> plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing but since the
> sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never understood how they are
> supposed to get lubrication.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 5:06=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell <rchaskell@earthlink.=
net>
> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil. No grease. Oil flow=
s
> between the axle shaft and the axle housing to around to the bearing. Ye=
s,
> the paper gasket has to be oil tight. The oil seal keeps the oil from
> lubricating the brake shoes.
>
> Bob Haskell
> Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar
>
> On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:
>
> Can someone explain how the hub oil seals are meant to work. They are
> inbord of the hub bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? =
(
> the service manual suggests they should, but the same manual doesn't tell
> you to pack the hub with grease when changing hub bearings and seals). Is
> the back axle oil intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing=
?
> If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to half-shaft joint will
> need to be oil tight.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Mike Brooks
> 56 BN2
> Scotland
>
> Yahoo Mail: Search, organise, conquer
> <https://mail.onelink.me/107872968?pid=3DNativePlacement&c=3DGlobal_Acqui=
sition_YMktg_315_EmailSignatureGrowth_YahooMail:Search,Organize,Conquer&af_=
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_sub5=3DOrganizeConquer__Static_>
>
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--000000000000831da906145309bc
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Gary<div><br></div><div>The BN2 rear hubs are a bad design=
relying on very accurate machining=C2=A0of the depth of the bearing locati=
on and an accurate bearing width. Tolerances=C2=A0are very tight and it is =
hoped that a gachet of correct thickness will make a good oil seal and at t=
he same time grip the bearing outer from turning in its housing.</div><div>=
<br></div><div>This problem was addressed=C2=A0by the manufacturer=C2=A0and=
an extra grove was machined in the face of the hup. Into this grove is fit=
ted an 'O' ring that will seal the gap between=C2=A0the hub and hal=
f shaft. This will seal a wide range of tolerances and at the same time ens=
ure that there is a good grip on the bearing outer.</div><div><br></div><di=
v>If available the best solution is to find hubs for later=C2=A0big Healey =
and fit these together with 'O' rings.</div><div><br></div><div>Ano=
ther solution=C2=A0is to run a continuous ring of liquid=C2=A0gasket around=
the face of the hub before assembly. This is also the only effective seal =
on early BN1 hubs.</div><div><br></div><div>All the best</div></div><br><di=
v class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, 18 Ma=
r 2024 at 18:02, warthodson--- via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@au=
tox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote cl=
ass=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid=
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=3D"font-family:"Co=
mic Sans MS",sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">The work shop manual refers to a specific dimensio=
n that the paper gasket must stand proud of the steel ring spacer.</div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr">The gaskets that I received from a well known supplier were t=
oo thin. I made my own & have never had a leak or a bearing failure, so=
far, 15-20 years!</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Gary Hodson</div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cyahoo_quoted_12174=
14981">
<div style=3D"font-family:"Helvetica Neue",Helvetica,=
Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:rgb(38,40,42)">
=20
<div>
On Monday, March 18, 2024 at 11:15:39 AM CDT, Bob Spide=
ll <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; target=3D"_blank">bspidell@c=
omcast.net</a>> wrote:
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cyiv65468234=
10"><div>
Tom Monaco told me he's replaced a large number of spun axle
bearings--IIRC he said 'a hundred' or so--over the last few yea=
rs.
I'm not sure exactly what you'd look for that presages that pro=
blem,
but something to keep in mind. It's not particularly easy to get th=
e
requisite torque on the big eight-sided nut that clamps the inner
race; knocking it on with a hammer and chisel isn't a good solution
(I use a purpose-made large socket and a 3/4" air impact driver).
They can spin in the hub as well.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Moss sells a reg. seal for $2.79 and a 'premium' for $21.99; I
couldn't tell you the difference except the cheap one is a 'no =
name'
and the 'premium' was a (generally) good brand (maybe Timken or=
SK;
I don't recall). Worth it or just 'marketing?' Beats me, bu=
t given
the hassle of this job I went for 'premium.'<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<div id=3D"m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cyiv6546823410yqtfd89942"><di=
v>On 3/17/2024 5:23 PM, Michael Oritt
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
</blockquote></div></div><div id=3D"m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d60cy=
iv6546823410yqtfd04690"></div><div><div id=3D"m_-3944875174496281455ydp662d=
60cyiv6546823410yqtfd78669"><div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">What Bob
says.=C2=A0=C2=A0</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">The inner seal
on the axle is the critical=C2=A0piece and if there is wear on th=
e
sealing surface you will need to fit a Speedi-Sleeve or
similar repair piece.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">BTW SKF and
others make what=C2=A0they=C2=A0call semi-sealed or sealed bearin=
gs with
plastic or fibre pieces on one or both sides of the bearing
but since the sealed ones are not filled with oil I have never
understood how they are supposed to get lubrication.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at
5:06=E2=80=AFPM Bob Haskell <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:=
rchaskell@earthlink.net" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">rchaskell@earth=
link.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid=
rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<p>Mike,</p>
<p>The bearings are lubricated with the rear axle oil.=C2=A0 No
grease.=C2=A0 Oil flows between the axle shaft and the axle
housing to around to the bearing.=C2=A0 Yes, the paper gasket
has to be oil tight.=C2=A0 The oil seal keeps the oil from
lubricating the brake shoes.<br clear=3D"none">
</p>
<pre>Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
<div>On 3/17/24 16:13, mike brooks via Healeys wrote:<br clear=
=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"> Can someone explain how the hub oil
seals are meant to work. They are inbord of the hub
bearings. Are the hubs meant to be packed with grease? (
the service manual suggests they should, but the same
manual doesn't tell you to pack the hub with grease when
changing hub bearings and seals). Is the back axle oil
intended to pass across the oil seal to the hub bearing?
If so, then the paper gasket in the hub flange to
half-shaft joint will need to be oil tight.
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Thanks in advance for any help.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Mike Brooks</div>
<div>56 BN2</div>
<div>Scotland</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
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=20
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