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161. RE: Spitfire Screen Saver (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:48:56 -0400; the common thread between No offense to Michael, but I'm only interested in the Spitfires. Let's keep it that way; if you have other LBCs let 'em add JPEGs on your own system. BTW what kind of resour; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00033.html (7,677 bytes)
162. Re: California Stop? (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 17:27:02 -0400; Here on the 'right coast' (as opposed to the 'left coast') we use the phrase California Stop to indicate a mellow, laid-back kinda coasting-thru-the-intersection kind of manuever. Sort of seems that; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00043.html (8,462 bytes)
163. Re: Tanx! (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 21:42:40 -0400; Sorry, not me, but make sure your Lucas alternator has the wire-type plug retainer to keep the connector tight. When the electrical shop rebuilt mine they left it off... Atwell Haines '79 Spitfire (L; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00153.html (6,605 bytes)
164. Re: Plastic Engine Valences? (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 21:34:32 -0400; Laura, The front valences (surrounding the radiator) serve to direct cooling air flow towards the radiator...and they really do make a difference in the efficiency of the cooling system. The side val; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00154.html (8,902 bytes)
165. Re: Oil, Brake & Clutch fluids - opinions (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 22:07:42 -0400; If you drive the car a lot, use a synthetic to extend your oil change intervals. If not, use any modern 20W-50 (as specified). Even the synthetics get contaminated with acidics during warmup so you s; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00230.html (8,436 bytes)
166. Re: Blowing fuses (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 21:38:59 -0400; WHOA! Nik! Do I see smoke waifting over East Aurora, NY???? According to the circuit descriptions in the owners manual (part of the Bentley workshop manual) : "The _10_ amp fuse fed by a red/green ca; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00231.html (9,463 bytes)
167. Re: Flushing out a Gas Tank (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 22:39:42 -0400; Yes. <snip> Sorry, no idea about that orange washer. Perhaps it fell down from the top area of the tank? But wait, there are supposed to be TWO wires to the sending unit -- a green and a black. If th; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00232.html (8,476 bytes)
168. Re: Flushing out a Gas Tank (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 19:06:55 -0400; Ohhhh....Gotcha. A rusty actuator rod is indeed a possibility. Per a thread here a month ago, we determined that the OEM senders had a 'rubber band' type oring around the float to keep it quiet if it; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00270.html (8,298 bytes)
169. Re: Oil, Brake & Clutch fluids - opinions (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 19:10:24 -0400; Silicone fluid should 'feel' the same as glycol in a clutch system...the pressures are only a fraction of what brake hydraulics see. Try having Dave bleed them again, or look for a loose linkage som; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00271.html (10,055 bytes)
170. Re: Ignition light (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 19:21:29 -0400; Ray, Check the tightness of the grounds and battery leads, but it's most likely your regulator (part of the alternator) which is bad. Get it to an auto electric shop & have it tested. Atwell Haines '; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00304.html (7,130 bytes)
171. Re: Dash Pot Oil (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 18:48:52 -0400; James, One downsideside to a synthetic in this appilication is that, the synthetic is more apt to leak past the o-ring in adjustable ZS carbs. Don't know if your SUs could suffer from the same malady; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00305.html (7,396 bytes)
172. Re: Question on tearing out all the electricals (longish) (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Wed, 09 Jun 1999 19:06:26 -0400; You don't mean removing the entire wiring harness I hope! A better plan would be to work on one device or circuit at a time. You will find that fixing a ground here or a connector there may repair ot; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00347.html (9,885 bytes)
173. Re: bad gas killed my car(GT6)?? (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 18:14:21 -0400; When you got to the bottom of the tank, the carb sucked up some dirt or tarnish. It's probably stuck in the float needle. Clean the carb needle & float chamber, change the fuel filter, and let that b; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00402.html (7,141 bytes)
174. Re: air pump (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 21:28:59 -0400; Sam, Chances are that your catalytic converter is shot. That's an expensive repair. :( I have left the air pump disconnected on mine because of that. Plus, my air pump is a bit noisy also. (Another e; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00460.html (8,007 bytes)
175. Re: air pump (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 20:52:47 -0400; The converter is hot and will ignite unburned gas on overrun...ESPECIALLY when an air pump is shooting air in to make the embers glow! Melted-down or disintegrated cat elements will have hot spots th; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00506.html (9,786 bytes)
176. RE: air pump (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 20:53:03 -0400; The Big Three vendors have the bypass valve, as does Spitbits. Bad newsthey are a bit pricey, ~ 40 bucks IIRC. I've looked inside them, they have a 'calibrated' spring (which seems to weaken with age; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00507.html (8,438 bytes)
177. Re: air pump (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 20:53:23 -0400; I suggest removing the pump and check valve. Spray WD-40 or some such inside the pump, seal it in a ziploc, then save it for a rainy day. :) Can't say. I know that mine goes put-put-put with the pump; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00508.html (9,252 bytes)
178. Re: air pump (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 21:00:07 -0400; I have thought of that, but the local muffler & speed shops don't sell anything that would fit in the same space as the Spit converter. And I certainly would NOT put a cat under my tranny without a l; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00509.html (8,464 bytes)
179. Re: air pump (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 21:05:51 -0400; Ted and Barry, Some of the 78 and early 79 Spitfires did not have the diverter valve (also known as the gulp valve). These cars had the air pump going into a single port on the exhaust manifold just; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00510.html (8,951 bytes)
180. Re: air pump (score: 1): Author: Atwell Haines <carbuff@nac.net>; Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 21:18:42 -0400; Page 92 of the Vick Brit catalog shows the two different air pump configurations. The top right shows the individual air injection piping for each cylinder, with the diverter valve. The lower left sh; /html/spitfires/1999-06/msg00511.html (8,147 bytes)

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