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101. RE: De-chroming question (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 18:43:13 -0800; Probably cheaper to buy used ones from someone like British Auto Works. Ask them for a quote. They respond to emails rather well. NFI. Vance email@britishautoworks.com www.britishautoworks.com Anyon; /html/6pack/2005-11/msg00231.html (7,806 bytes)
102. RE: TR6 Suspension Rebuild - Upper Wishbone Problem? (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 08:11:20 -0800; That seems to be correct, based on the drawings at Moss and Rimmer Bros on line. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr6/images/66a.gif http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/TRS-029.gif I a; /html/6pack/2005-11/msg00238.html (9,034 bytes)
103. RE: supercharger for tr6 (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2005 09:26:50 -0800; How about the James Taylor song? Damn, this traffic jam! Hurts my motor to go so slow! Vance P.S. Trying to remember the band who sang "I can't drive 55". Van Halen? --Original Message-- From: owner-; /html/6pack/2005-11/msg00240.html (8,337 bytes)
104. RE: best rods (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Tue, 29 Nov 2005 18:30:56 -0800; Carrillo offers TR6 rods, and you can bet they are strong. www.carrilloind.com For a higher strength rod than stock, you can detail your existing rods by polishing the beam and polishing out the for; /html/6pack/2005-11/msg00265.html (8,877 bytes)
105. RE: Head gaskets, II (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Wed, 30 Nov 2005 12:55:56 -0800; Actually, it is the gasket manufacturers that have the most to say about this. I believe that retorquing pretty much disappeared by the end of the 60's or so. When I look at GMHPP catalogue for exam; /html/6pack/2005-11/msg00273.html (7,949 bytes)
106. RE: Main Engine Seal Grease (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 09:41:33 -0700; I can't imagine that it is that critical. A good wheel bearing grease should do the trick. I would not recommend moly grease because it contaminates the oil requiring a change out in short order. If; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00023.html (7,315 bytes)
107. RE: "Bowl Work" - Was "Electronic Ignition" (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2005 13:39:49 -0700; "Bowl Work" refers to the valve pocket, i.e. the first 1 inch or so of the port that is adjacent to the valve seat. This is where 80% of the gains to be had from porting are realized, and it should; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00026.html (8,508 bytes)
108. RE: pop rivets - GRRRR! (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 08:25:03 -0700; The type of rivet you use makes a difference. Aluminum is softer and requires less force to install, plus it doesn't rust. For the studs, I placed a *small* washer over the stem of the pop rivet so; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00055.html (9,156 bytes)
109. RE: gasket dressings (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 6 Oct 2005 09:20:05 -0700; Nothing on the head gasket where the head and the deck touch it. You might want to use a little Hylomar on both sides of it where it seals the outside of the lifter gallery (gasket is about 1/4" wid; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00058.html (7,778 bytes)
110. RE: Steering & Suspension Rebuild (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2005 16:40:35 -0700; I would get the reinforcing kit for the a-arm brackets and install that. IT is a proven upgrade, and one which the factory eventually installed on all later cars. I don't believe the studs are prone; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00078.html (9,365 bytes)
111. RE: tops (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 11:04:17 -0700; My TR6 (1974.5) already has 3 snaps below the quarter windows. The issue is that if all you do is unsnap them, then fold the top, the quarter windows may or may not fold in such a way that they tear; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00098.html (8,587 bytes)
112. RE: tops (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2005 13:10:29 -0700; WHAT!?!?! READ THE MANUAL??!!! That's for Girly-men! Vance Hi, The TR6 top lowering/raising may not be up to the modern standards in terms of eas of use, but it is TONS better than the early TR's we; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00106.html (7,699 bytes)
113. RE: head shaving (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 08:05:52 -0700; You don't say how much you want to shave the head. A light skim (0.010") does not require any fiddling, other than resetting the valve lash as usual. If you are going to go more than say, 0.080" the; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00119.html (8,010 bytes)
114. RE: Threads and Cranks, Was:Oil Sump Drain Thread (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 08:10:53 -0700; I am using a hex socket head NPT 3/8" plug, with no issues. I realize it is not original, but it beats having the square headed job get rounded off. Both types are available for a few pennies at a g; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00120.html (7,934 bytes)
115. T-Bird uses. Was: pop rivets - GRRRR! (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 07:55:38 -0700; FWIW T-bird also makes a great emergency anti-freeze and paint stripper. My only complaint is that the fumes make your eyes water real bad. Cheers, Vance Listers: <snip> Thus I prepare to pour anoth; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00147.html (7,408 bytes)
116. RE: accelerator parts (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 08:25:33 -0700; Pick up a used one from British Autoworks. www.britishautoworks.com, email@britishautoworks.com. NFI, etc. They respond well to email. Vance --Original Message-- From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [ma; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00148.html (7,209 bytes)
117. RE: Installing new choke cable (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2005 15:59:29 -0700; If your choke cable is original, then the knob is probably glued on to the choke cable! Mine was. Most of the knobs have a small hole on the underside of the knob (use a dental mirror to spot if you; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00152.html (9,504 bytes)
118. RE: Synthetic oil and break-in (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 09:25:27 -0700; The newer motors use roller cams, so the old concerns about breaking in the cam do not apply in these cases. As for the reduced oil consumption, valve stem seals are now 'de rigueur' so that path fo; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00190.html (9,144 bytes)
119. RE: What oil do you use anyway?? (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2005 10:46:49 -0700; 10W-30, Valvoline or Pennzoil. When I ported my Z28 Camaro with 20,000 miles on it, the cross hatching was still pristine in all 8 cylinders using this grade of oil. I was impressed. I would have th; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00193.html (8,130 bytes)
120. RE: carb adjustment--stumble on acceleration (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2005 07:51:43 -0700; The carb tool will allow you to correct the sooty plugs, but probably will not fix your stumble. The first thing to do is check the oil level in the carb dashpots. Most often, the stumble is a resul; /html/6pack/2005-10/msg00200.html (8,060 bytes)

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