Andy:
That seems to be correct, based on the drawings at Moss and
Rimmer Bros on line.
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr6/images/66a.gif
http://www.mossmotors.com/Graphics/Products/Schematics/TRS-029.gif
I also believe that is what you want, a slight rearward castor
so that the steering has
a tendency to be self centering. If memory serves, that is also the way
I put mine back together.
You are wise to be careful, there are many 'handed' parts in the
front suspension that
can be installed backwards, giving all kinds of strange behavior. The
bottom a-arms and the
top fulcrum pin to name a couple.
I would expect the rebuilt side to be significantly stiffer than
the old side. The ball
joints in particular will tighten up the suspension.
FYI, my steering was quite heavy when I bought the car, and
after the rebuild, the
effort was much lighter even though the vertical links were much
stiffer. So don't worry about
the increased stiffness at this point.
Vance
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Andy Schwarz
Sent: November 27, 2005 10:30 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: TR6 Suspension Rebuild - Upper Wishbone Problem?
<snip>
I don't know if the upper wishbone is in correctly. I have the one with
the
deepest curve to the front. Is this correct? It seems to be from what
I can
see in the Bentley book. This gives the vertical link somewhat of a
back
lean. Yet, the other side, which I have not dismantled, has the one
with the
deepest curve to the rear. That vertical link moves quite freely.
Maybe that
is due to wear. The rebuilt one, can only be rotated with a lot of
effort,
unless a jack under the spring compresses the spring somewhat. Then it
moves
easier - but still is stiff. Is that the way a new unit should be?
<snip>
Andy
TR6
Renton, WA
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