Bob, et. al.:
The type of rivet you use makes a difference. Aluminum is softer
and requires less
force to install, plus it doesn't rust.
For the studs, I placed a *small* washer over the stem of the
pop rivet so that
when I placed the rivet into the tool it stood proud of the riveter nose
by about
1/16". This allows the rivet to nest fully inside the stud and results
in a more
consistent rivet placement. If you don't do this, the rivet will not
nest fully inside
the stud because the riveter nose is larger than the stud, and
installation becomes hit
or miss.
To summarize - use Aluminum rivets, and put a spacer of some
sort between the
rivet and tool that allows the rivet to nest inside the stud.
Cheers,
Vance
P.S. Someone on the list suggested using the screw on tip of a
spark plug
as a spacer when riveting. It is a nice size, but I found it to be too
long and
my riveter would not reliably grip the rivet stem. It may work for
you....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-6pack@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: October 06, 2005 7:49 AM
To: Jim Jones
Cc: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: pop rivets - GRRRR!
Hi,
Some folks have very good luck with using a pneumatic rivet gun for the
job. It's a lot less exspensive to buy the tool that it is to repaint
both
your dors. But the tool will get you consistantly installed rivets and
reduce the chance that you'll go slip-POP-$#!^ with the inexpesive pop
rivet tools.
I got this tip from a pro that did a lot of top installs.
If you want to use the inexspensive tool, make sure to mask around the
holes to _reduce_ the chance of a grazing blow (and resultant scratch)
to
the paint.
rml
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