Malcolm Walker wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
Hi Malcolm ! Long time no hear !
> My question: What sort of things should I buy?
TRF sells a kit with all the things you should replace anyway. But, IMO
you should plan on tearing down the box first, and then ordering parts.
>From your description, it may be pretty bad inside. The knock is
probably a busted gear tooth. You might consider looking for another
box to rebuild ...
> Is it time to do a
> clutch job too, or should I inspect first?
Let your pocketbook be your guide, but you will have done 95% of the
work already. IMO you should change the friction plate at least (but
note that I usually don't take my own advice, haven't ever changed a
friction plate that I can recall <g> Unless of course it was attached
to the different engine I was putting in.)
> Gaskets / gasket material to
> get?
Again, get the TRF kit or at least the gasket set from anyone. The
gaskets are only a few dollars, probably less than you'd pay for the raw
materials.
> Special tools?
There are lots of them shown in the manual, but you can do the job with
just a set of feeler gauges and some creative use of screwdrivers/pry
bars. Oh, and a brass-faced hammer. It's probably worthwhile cutting a
length of rod (3/4" as I recall, not certain) to go inside the counter
gears while you drop them back into the case. There's a circlip on the
mainshaft that is a bear to remove and install, last time I cut down
three screwdrivers to fit in the slots and pry it out. Used snap ring
pliers to spread it enough to start the screwdrivers behind it. Next
time, I'll probably try my hand at making a replica of the Churchill
tool.
> Should I go for the 'magic clutch recipe, or stick
> with original stuff?
I'd stick with the original. The "3-finger" B&B as fitted to the TR2-4
seems pretty bulletproof to me (although someone did blow one up on the
racetrack recently). Larger diameter and more clutch surface too.
> Can I drop in a newer TR6 (or non-Triumph) transmission in, so that I
> can continue to drive while rebuilding the original?
The TR6 box will work. There were other Triumph trannys that also fit
(sedans and such) but I don't know of any non-Triumph that will. The
tranny nose piece changed with the diaphragm clutch (TR4A), and the
input shaft got shorter somewhere around 73/74, but I've been told that
the later pieces will work OK with the earlier clutch and pilot
bearing. You may need longer studs for the back of the engine block,
I'm not sure when the bellhousing thickness changed.
Did you see my announcement a few weeks back about the Toyota 5-speed
(with OD) conversion from Herman van den Akker ? Not my cup of tea, but
it might not cost a great deal more than you'll be spending anyway, and
OD is sure nice to have.
> How about older,
> eg. TR3 without synchro first?
Also doable, although the non-synchro-1st box is slightly shorter. You
may need to elongate the holes where the rear motor mount bolts to the
crossmember to avoid straining the front motor mounts. You'll want to
keep your TR4 shifter on it, the early shifter will run your knuckles
into the dash in 1st gear. Again, you may need to change the studs, or
the starter bolts, because of differences in bellhousing thickness.
Randall
59 TR3A daily driver
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