Ok, I'll weigh in with what I learned going through the same question on
turning rotors. First, it was pretty much a consensus that the rotors on a
TR3 are pretty meaty and can take a turning or 2 without worry. Second, it
is really difficult to find someone to turn them. At least in CA where there
are stiff penalties for turning rotors beyond their specs and no one
anywhere seems to have the specs, so the brake shops wouldn't touch them. I
finally found a generic garage with a laythe that took the chance. Third, if
they don't need turning, there is nothing to gain. If they are scored,
although some will argue that only gives more surface once the pads wear in
you may want to get them surfaced. If there is a wobble from being out of
round, then you should have them surfaced or replaced. If they are glazed,
try brake cleaner or sandpaper.
Bbo
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Stretch" <technical@iwnet.screaming.net>
To: <KMNTR6@aol.com>
Cc: "Triumph List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: Another Front Suspension Question
>
> Hi Ken
> This is not a job that should be done for the hell of it, thinner discs
will
> heat up quicker leading to earlier brake fade, if the discs need skimming
> then replace the pads, if the pads are worn replace them.
>
> Graham.
> 2.5 PI MKII
> Sprinted Dolomite
> 2000 MKI
> Toledo
> 1300 Front Wheel Drive
>
> http://www.triumph-iw.co.uk
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <KMNTR6@aol.com>
> To: <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:31 PM
> Subject: Another Front Suspension Question
>
>
> >
> > All
> >
> > Another front suspension question.
> >
> > I am in the process of replacing the ball joints, trunnions, etc. on my
> '57
> > TR3 and was wondering if I should have the rotor turned or machined
since
> it
> > is apart? Also is it advisable to replace the brake pads at this time?
> >
> > Later
> > Ken Nachman
> > Richmond Triumph Register
> > 1957 TR3 TS21086L
> > 1974 TR6 CF16990U
>
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