triumphs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Another Front Suspension Question

To: KMNTR6@aol.com, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Another Front Suspension Question
From: BPAULTR3@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Aug 2000 13:11:01 EDT
In a message dated 8/14/100 10:34:22 AM EST, KMNTR6@aol.com writes:

<< I am in the process of replacing the ball joints, trunnions, etc. on my 
'57 
 TR3 and was wondering if I should have the rotor turned or machined since it 
 is apart? Also is it advisable to replace the brake pads at this time?
  >>

I'm sure you'll find that there are many approaches to rebuilding/restoring.  
I have one friend, a former TR owner now Healey owner, who , in the process 
of repairs/restoration work, replaces only the parts that he feels are 
defective or worn out.  For example, during a tune up he does not routinely 
replace the rotor if it "looks OK", same with things like belts, hoses.  He 
was describing a continuing problem he was having with his Healey, always 
breaking down on the drive home.  Yes, he had tuned it carefully, everything 
was good. Periodic problem.  Would run real well then, poof - just dead in 
the water.  Well it turned out to be a used rotor he had left in there during 
the tune up.  I figure he bought $500 worth of aggravation saving a couple of 
bucks on a small part.

Personally if I am rebuilding or restoring a car I always replace all the 
'wear' parts.  Bearings, seals, etc.  If I am making a repair to a car I've 
owned for a long time and have previously restored, I might just replace the 
failed part or parts.  There is a cost/time/effort playoff of course.  You 
don't rebuild the engine because the plugs wore out.  But if you've gone to 
all the work to remove a tear down an engine,  it makes complete sense to me 
to replace the rod and main bearings in an 'unknown' engine even if the oil 
pressure 'seemed' OK, no knocks etc.  

Check the cost of the work/parts in your case, the pads and machine work.  
Then think about maybe breaking down on the road, or worse having an 
accident, then having to do all the work over. I'd just do it now, AND the 
brake hoses, check the brake pistons, replace the seals, check the front 
spindles for cracks, install new wheel bearings, etc. etc.  Then you will 
essentially have a new front end and can drive with a feeling of security for 
a long , long time.  

Just my thoughts.
Bob Paul
Corrales NM

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>