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Re: Spin on oil adapter gaskets

To: Jack Brooks <brooks@belcotech.com>
Subject: Re: Spin on oil adapter gaskets
From: Fred Thomas <vafred@erols.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 1999 08:35:30 -0400
Cc: Brian Sanborn <sanborn@net1plus.com>, "Geohahn@Azstarnet. Com" <geohahn@azstarnet.com>, Triumph List <Triumphs@autox.team.net>
References: <000801beceba$43c9f360$580db5ce@brooks.belcotech.com>
I have found that V/B has the replacement gasket is stock and sold as a pair.

Jack Brooks wrote:

> George & Brian,
>
> >Guess all those messy cartridge changes where I didn't replace the ring
> >were a good thing as I still have some spares.
>
> Me too, I just didn't think of them when I pulled the filter head off, which
> I guess I will be doing again as it seems impossible to get the flat O-ring
> out with the filter head in place.
>
> >1) Examine the ring closely for consistent dimensions.
>
> Finding a varied thickness would be surprising, but it is a TR part....
>
> >2) Don't (as I think someone suggested) use red Loctite on the threads
> >of the adapter as you may have to remove it to work on a leak.
>
> Let me fine tune your sentence... "you WILL have to remove it to work on a
> leak."  :-(  Not a horrible experience, but I always make sure to re-anneal
> the copper washers on the oil pressure line, each time I retorque them.
>
> Brian, if you're leaking at the pressure connection, have you re-annealed
> these copper washers? To re-anneal copper, support them on a piece of wire,
> heat the to cherry red color and quench them.  With copper this softens
> them.  With steel, this procedure would harden them.
>
> Also, and you probably already know this, the copper washers at the pressure
> connection have two different inside diameters.  The bigger ID goes to the
> inside of the banjo to allow the oil into the banjo connection.  The smaller
> ID seals the outer edge of the banjo against the acorn nut.
>
> >3) Make sure the groove is empty... I've heard of people finding more
> >than one old ring stuck up in there.
>
> I only had the one I put in.  I refurbished the entire assembly when I redid
> the engine.  I know it was empty.
>
> As a repair, I added a thin wire, 0.050, in the groove before putting the
> gasket back in.  This has reduced or virtually eliminated the leak, enabling
> me to have some driving time, while looking for a better solution.  The wire
> really isn't a great idea, as it won't seal that end of the gasket well, but
> it's virtually leak free, for now.
>
> I did use some aftermarket O-rings elsewhere on the car and they have held
> up well.  I am going to look for a very thin O-ring, or flat strip, to go
> into the groove first (instead of the 0.050 wire), to provide a little extra
> sealing pressure.  NOTE: My adapter had a nick in the edge which sealed on
> the O-ring, so I lapped the sealing surface to remove it.  I may have taken
> an additional two to three thousands off the thickness.  This may be the
> difference.  I'm not sure.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Jack Brooks
> 1960 TR3A
> 1974 Norton 850 Commando
> Hillsdale, NJ
> My car show: http://www.NJTriumphs.org/westwood/home.html


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