George & Brian,
>Guess all those messy cartridge changes where I didn't replace the ring
>were a good thing as I still have some spares.
Me too, I just didn't think of them when I pulled the filter head off, which
I guess I will be doing again as it seems impossible to get the flat O-ring
out with the filter head in place.
>1) Examine the ring closely for consistent dimensions.
Finding a varied thickness would be surprising, but it is a TR part....
>2) Don't (as I think someone suggested) use red Loctite on the threads
>of the adapter as you may have to remove it to work on a leak.
Let me fine tune your sentence... "you WILL have to remove it to work on a
leak." :-( Not a horrible experience, but I always make sure to re-anneal
the copper washers on the oil pressure line, each time I retorque them.
Brian, if you're leaking at the pressure connection, have you re-annealed
these copper washers? To re-anneal copper, support them on a piece of wire,
heat the to cherry red color and quench them. With copper this softens
them. With steel, this procedure would harden them.
Also, and you probably already know this, the copper washers at the pressure
connection have two different inside diameters. The bigger ID goes to the
inside of the banjo to allow the oil into the banjo connection. The smaller
ID seals the outer edge of the banjo against the acorn nut.
>3) Make sure the groove is empty... I've heard of people finding more
>than one old ring stuck up in there.
I only had the one I put in. I refurbished the entire assembly when I redid
the engine. I know it was empty.
As a repair, I added a thin wire, 0.050, in the groove before putting the
gasket back in. This has reduced or virtually eliminated the leak, enabling
me to have some driving time, while looking for a better solution. The wire
really isn't a great idea, as it won't seal that end of the gasket well, but
it's virtually leak free, for now.
I did use some aftermarket O-rings elsewhere on the car and they have held
up well. I am going to look for a very thin O-ring, or flat strip, to go
into the groove first (instead of the 0.050 wire), to provide a little extra
sealing pressure. NOTE: My adapter had a nick in the edge which sealed on
the O-ring, so I lapped the sealing surface to remove it. I may have taken
an additional two to three thousands off the thickness. This may be the
difference. I'm not sure.
Thanks for your help,
Jack Brooks
1960 TR3A
1974 Norton 850 Commando
Hillsdale, NJ
My car show: http://www.NJTriumphs.org/westwood/home.html
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