Jan & Alma Westerhof wrote:
>
> Arthur,
>
> You should in my opinion NEVER separate the two caliper halves.
> To get the pistons out I suggest this method.
> Take the complete caliper off the car.
> Make sure that brake fluid stays inside the caliper as far as possible.
> Use a bleed nipple in the hole where the brake hose came from, tighten it so
> that no fluid cam escape. You could also use a scrwe with the right thread
> size for this.
> Now use a clamp or a vice to press one of the pistons into the caliper. This
> will force the other piston out, no matter how much it is rusted or
> otherwise stuck.
> Clean the caliper where the piston cam from, remove at least one of the
> bleed nipples and fill with brake fluid and replace the piston, use a new
> one if possible and preferably a stainless steel one.
>
> Now put the bleed nipple(s) back in and tighten. Use the clamp or vice on
> the new piston and the other piston will come out. Be carefull because it
> could pop out quite violently, I use lots of old rags over the caliper to
> protect myself and the environment against low flyimg pistons and/or brake
> fluid.
>
> Now you clean this part of the caliper, remove the extra bleed nipple and
> connect the whole thing up again and bleed the sytem.
>
> This method has worked for me several times during 25 years of Triumph
> ownership. It even worked on My Alfa, and they must be the most difficult
> cars to work on.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jan Westerhof
> 1959 TR3A
>
> -----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
> Van: Ellen Kratz <hklean@erols.com>
> Aan: Arthur H. Smith <arthurhsmith@compuserve.com>
> CC: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Datum: dinsdag 9 februari 1999 5:38
> Onderwerp: Re: calipers
>
> >
> >Arthur H. Smith wrote:
> >>
> >> >I am not sure what you are refering to as a Blaster, but if it's
> >> >compressed air, IMHO it's not a very good idea to use on TR calipers,
> >> >because they are "split" and have an o-ring/seal between the two halves
> >> >that could be damaged from the air pressure. In fact, there are warnings
> >> >in the manual about not cleaning the caliper assembly with any strong
> >> >cleaners that might get into the gap and damage the seal.
> >>
> >> I can understand a warning against using cleaners because they can seep
> in
> >> through microscopic openings and damage the rubber. But air pressure is
> >> lower in the home/garage shop than what you generate with a push on the
> >> brake pedal.
> >Authur,
> >To remove stubborn pistons it is easiest to first seperate the caliper
> >halves.I have read warnings against this but could never understand the
> >logic behind them.I have restored many calipers by seperating the
> >halves,then removing the pistons and glass beading the castings then
> >rebuilding them.
> >The cross feed seals can either be saved or replaced.Pegasus Racing
> >supplies sells Girling cross feed seals for $1.99 each.I have done many
> >calipers and never had a problem. I have found that clamping the caliper
> >half with the stuck piston in a padded vise, then trying to rotate the
> >piston by the chisle and BFH method works well.Once they rotate a little
> >they can be removed with compressed air.Soaking the whole thing in CRC
> >helps.Be carfull!! When they let loose they can fly across the shop at
> >dangerous speed.
> >Once I had a piston half out that wouldn`t budge.I drilled a hole in the
> >bottom center of the piston.Then tapped the hole and theaded a bolt into
> >the hole and pressed the piston out against the caliper.
> >Where there`s a will ......
> >Good luck,Rick Hand
Why the bugaboo about seperating the caliper halves? They were assembled
by humans.If propper care is taken I see no reason other humans can`t
reassemble them.In fact I have done this several times.It is the only
way to fully clean (glass bead ) the parts. No problems!
Rick Hand
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