Arthur,
You should in my opinion NEVER separate the two caliper halves.
To get the pistons out I suggest this method.
Take the complete caliper off the car.
Make sure that brake fluid stays inside the caliper as far as possible.
Use a bleed nipple in the hole where the brake hose came from, tighten it so
that no fluid cam escape. You could also use a scrwe with the right thread
size for this.
Now use a clamp or a vice to press one of the pistons into the caliper. This
will force the other piston out, no matter how much it is rusted or
otherwise stuck.
Clean the caliper where the piston cam from, remove at least one of the
bleed nipples and fill with brake fluid and replace the piston, use a new
one if possible and preferably a stainless steel one.
Now put the bleed nipple(s) back in and tighten. Use the clamp or vice on
the new piston and the other piston will come out. Be carefull because it
could pop out quite violently, I use lots of old rags over the caliper to
protect myself and the environment against low flyimg pistons and/or brake
fluid.
Now you clean this part of the caliper, remove the extra bleed nipple and
connect the whole thing up again and bleed the sytem.
This method has worked for me several times during 25 years of Triumph
ownership. It even worked on My Alfa, and they must be the most difficult
cars to work on.
Regards,
Jan Westerhof
1959 TR3A
-----Oorspronkelijk bericht-----
Van: Ellen Kratz <hklean@erols.com>
Aan: Arthur H. Smith <arthurhsmith@compuserve.com>
CC: triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Datum: dinsdag 9 februari 1999 5:38
Onderwerp: Re: calipers
>
>Arthur H. Smith wrote:
>>
>> >I am not sure what you are refering to as a Blaster, but if it's
>> >compressed air, IMHO it's not a very good idea to use on TR calipers,
>> >because they are "split" and have an o-ring/seal between the two halves
>> >that could be damaged from the air pressure. In fact, there are warnings
>> >in the manual about not cleaning the caliper assembly with any strong
>> >cleaners that might get into the gap and damage the seal.
>>
>> I can understand a warning against using cleaners because they can seep
in
>> through microscopic openings and damage the rubber. But air pressure is
>> lower in the home/garage shop than what you generate with a push on the
>> brake pedal.
>Authur,
>To remove stubborn pistons it is easiest to first seperate the caliper
>halves.I have read warnings against this but could never understand the
>logic behind them.I have restored many calipers by seperating the
>halves,then removing the pistons and glass beading the castings then
>rebuilding them.
>The cross feed seals can either be saved or replaced.Pegasus Racing
>supplies sells Girling cross feed seals for $1.99 each.I have done many
>calipers and never had a problem. I have found that clamping the caliper
>half with the stuck piston in a padded vise, then trying to rotate the
>piston by the chisle and BFH method works well.Once they rotate a little
>they can be removed with compressed air.Soaking the whole thing in CRC
>helps.Be carfull!! When they let loose they can fly across the shop at
>dangerous speed.
>Once I had a piston half out that wouldn`t budge.I drilled a hole in the
>bottom center of the piston.Then tapped the hole and theaded a bolt into
>the hole and pressed the piston out against the caliper.
>Where there`s a will ......
>Good luck,Rick Hand
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