In a message dated 98-12-19 15:22:00 EST, ARhodes@compuserve.com writes:
> I an fairly enthusiastic about keeping things stock, especially if it is
> visible, or if stock works pretty well as is. I recently changed my
> turn signal flasher unit to the electronic one from pep boys, and now
> my dash light blinks too! It is less susceptible to corroded lamps
> causing flasher malfunction.
Tony,
That's one quick way to cure sluggish TS flashers, but it has a couple of
drawbacks: One, it masks any problems you may be having with your electrical
connections, which really should be fixed, and two, you will no longer get
feedback if one of your TS bulbs should burn out. With the standard TS
flasher, a burned out bulb will stop the flashing as a warning that a bulb is
out. The heavy duty flashers will still flash with a bulb out. Not a problem,
but you will need to inspect your TS bulb more often.
> In the same vein, I wonder if the voltage stabilizer (actually a 10 volt
> regulator)
> is one of those things that could be changed to modern semiconductors. It
> will be able to maintain 10v over a broad range of input voltages, and the
> adjustment is made at electronic speeds (I assume the stabilizer is
> electro-mechanical). Maybe we should use semiconductors, then we don't
> need to worry too much about the drain through the stabilizer, etc.
You can but you will lose the appropriate temperature compensation. See my
post to Jim Alman today for more details.
> I occasionally notice the ammeter needle "ping" (vibrate as if on a spring)
> when
> I rev up out of idle. I had assumed that it was registering the main
> voltage
> regulator doing its regulation thing, but maybe it is the stabilizer!
The ammeter is in series with the main feed from the alternator/battery, so
the stabilizer is not in the circuit. If your ammeter is pinging, as in on-
off-on-off, you have either a faulty regulator or some bad connections in the
circuit somewhere. Or, if it's just "humming" around a given reading, it could
just be mechanical vibration feed back from the engine through the dash. The
ammeter needle is pretty free moving and sensitive.
> Do you have an idea about the total amperage draw through the stabilizer?
> I figure a 5 amp voltage regulator and a couple of resistors ought to do
> the job!
> I can whip one up out of my bin of parts now.
The stabilizer is in series with the meters, so the total draw through the
stabilizer will be the sum of the draws through the meters. Typically, a meter
draws less than 1/2 amp max, so 5 amps would be more than adequate, even if
you've added a few extra gauges.
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/index.html
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
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