Why on earth would you want to remove the stator tube? It's separate
from the control head. If you loosen the 3 grub screws, the control head
will pull out from the steering wheel and stator tube.
You can pull it far enough out to do work on it without pulling the wire
ends all the way into the stator tube. You may find that the parts
within are worn, in which case you either will have to make parts, or
order a new control head.
KTRIUMPH@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/2/98 5:46:29 PM EST, sweisman@gis.net writes:
>
> << My directional signal lever is only self-canceling on one side. I have to
> return the other side manually. Can this be repaired, or does the control
> head have to be replaced?
> Possibly but you have to remove the stator tube/control head to get to it.
> With this out you should be able to access the "guts" of the control head,
> lots of little parts - a bit like watch repair. But you might as well as you
> have to do this to replace it anyway.
>
> What's involved in removing it? If I want to replace the steering wheel at
> the same time, do I need a wheel puller for that? I have never taken off
> either one.
> Disconnect the wires from the c-head harness, loosen the stator tube nut in
> the front of the steering box, and undo the 3 grub screws in the side of the
> steering wheel. The thing should pull out of the steering wheel. Carefully!!
> And since it's about 5 ft long a helper is a real good idea. Steering wheel
> doesn't have to come off but you have to take out the c-head to remove the
> wheel. If you want to replace the steering wheel do it then. Your arms should
> be all the puller you need, once you remove the nut holding the wheel on!
>
> Ken Nuelle
> 58 TR3A
> 62 TR3B
> 64 TR4
--
George Richardson
The Wyvern - '57 TR3, TS15559L - Now on the road!
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
|