Jack,
If I recall correctly; on my car the washer on the top was a fairly
thick steel one which was placed on the stud in the silentbloc and
then the stud was "peened" over it. The outside of the bloc was a
steel tube or sleeve which was a press fit into the center link.
The rubber part of the block was bonded to both the sleeve and the
stud. This can make for some interesting pre-load in the steering
if bloc's are tightened up when the idler lever (and the drop link
on the steering) aren't at the same angle for each one.
I'm pretty sure that the outside dia. of the steel washer on the stud
was larger than the i.d. of the sleeve but not sure if it was smaller
than the sleeve's o.d. Either way it made it pretty much impossible to
pull the stud through the slientbloc when prying on the thing.
The press fit of the silentbloc into the center link was quite tight
and I think it could put up with a lot of prying before it moved.
Biggest problem I had when removing the old and installing the new
blocs was finding something that was just a little bit smaller than
the o.d. of the sleeve and with a hole down the center which I could
use as an arbor. I think I ended up using one of my 1/2" drive deep
sockets.
If you do end up putting in new blocs be aware that there's only one
correct way. The picture in the Moss catalog is correct as far as the
center link/silentbloc stuff goes but the way it shows the idler lever
and idler bracket is upside down.
FWIW the blocs I removed from my car were the same as the replacements I
got from Moss but I have no idea if they were the original ones or
not so your mileage may vary.
Drew
On Apr 6, 3:01pm, Jack I. Brooks wrote:
> Subject: Re: HELP - TR3 Steering "Idler Lever"
> Drew,
>
> Thanks for your quick response.
>
> I am reluctant to pry between the centerlink and the idler lever, as the
> only thing holding the center link to the silientbloc is the press fit
> and(I think) a thin brass/copper washer (the top of the silentbloc). I
> think that prying too hard would force the center link off of the top of
> the silentbloc. I have been using one or two tighly clamped vicegrips, to
> "hold" the bottom of the assembly, idler lever to silentbloc stud, under
> pressure, hoping that if I wacked the idler arm hard enough, the
> instantaneous deformation would allow it to release. I guess I need to go
> to a bigger hammer. It's just tough to find a place to brace the idler
> lever, so I don't impact the steering box.
>
> I am trying to preserve the silentbloc as I was told by a fellow lister,
> quite some time ago, that the silentblocs are difficult to replace. If you
> remember any difficulties with replacing the silentblocs, please let me
> know, as I may end up removing this one. I don't have access to a
> hydraulic press, but I have successfully used a bottle jack and two nearly
> immovable objects to press things before.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack
>
>-- End of excerpt from Jack I. Brooks
--
Drew Rogge
drew@pixar.com
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