Drew,
Great info. After reading your post, I think I want to keep my silentblocs
intact. I'll keep pressing with the bigger hammer and maybe try a pickle
fork, gently.
BTW - I do have a thin brass or copper top washer, which does have me a
little concerned right now. It is not sturdy. I don't think the
silentbloc is pulling out anytime soon, but I may have to located another
silentbloc and take a look.
Thanks again.
Jack
>If I recall correctly; on my car the washer on the top was a fairly
>thick steel one which was placed on the stud in the silentbloc and
>then the stud was "peened" over it. The outside of the bloc was a
>steel tube or sleeve which was a press fit into the center link.
>The rubber part of the block was bonded to both the sleeve and the
>stud. This can make for some interesting pre-load in the steering
>if bloc's are tightened up when the idler lever (and the drop link
>on the steering) aren't at the same angle for each one.
>
>I'm pretty sure that the outside dia. of the steel washer on the stud
>was larger than the i.d. of the sleeve but not sure if it was smaller
>than the sleeve's o.d. Either way it made it pretty much impossible to
>pull the stud through the slientbloc when prying on the thing.
>The press fit of the silentbloc into the center link was quite tight
>and I think it could put up with a lot of prying before it moved.
>
>Biggest problem I had when removing the old and installing the new
>blocs was finding something that was just a little bit smaller than
>the o.d. of the sleeve and with a hole down the center which I could
>use as an arbor. I think I ended up using one of my 1/2" drive deep
>sockets.
>
>If you do end up putting in new blocs be aware that there's only one
>correct way. The picture in the Moss catalog is correct as far as the
>center link/silentbloc stuff goes but the way it shows the idler lever
>and idler bracket is upside down.
>
>FWIW the blocs I removed from my car were the same as the replacements I
>got from Moss but I have no idea if they were the original ones or
>not so your mileage may vary.
>
>Drew
>
>On Apr 6, 3:01pm, Jack I. Brooks wrote:
>> Subject: Re: HELP - TR3 Steering "Idler Lever"
>> Drew,
>>
>> Thanks for your quick response.
>>
>> I am reluctant to pry between the centerlink and the idler lever, as the
>> only thing holding the center link to the silientbloc is the press fit
>> and(I think) a thin brass/copper washer (the top of the silentbloc). I
>> think that prying too hard would force the center link off of the top of
>> the silentbloc. I have been using one or two tighly clamped vicegrips, to
>> "hold" the bottom of the assembly, idler lever to silentbloc stud, under
>> pressure, hoping that if I wacked the idler arm hard enough, the
>> instantaneous deformation would allow it to release. I guess I need to go
>> to a bigger hammer. It's just tough to find a place to brace the idler
>> lever, so I don't impact the steering box.
>>
>> I am trying to preserve the silentbloc as I was told by a fellow lister,
>> quite some time ago, that the silentblocs are difficult to replace. If you
>> remember any difficulties with replacing the silentblocs, please let me
>> know, as I may end up removing this one. I don't have access to a
>> hydraulic press, but I have successfully used a bottle jack and two nearly
>> immovable objects to press things before.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Jack
>>
>>-- End of excerpt from Jack I. Brooks
>
>
>
>--
>Drew Rogge
>drew@pixar.com
>
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