On Mon, 6 Apr 1998 jbonina@nectech.com wrote:
> Just for yucks, order two new tie rod ends from Moss or TRF and compare.
> These are normal consumable items and the cost is relatively small (under
> $30 for both sides. Then compare the old to the new. The TRF ones might
> be a bit more expensive, I just got a couple from them that have grease
> fittings, a real plus in my book. If you get the greasable style, it is
> concievable that the parts could outlast your car (although I would not
> count on that...)
>
> **These tie rods are part of the rebuilt steering rack I had
> installed. It was bought from TRF. I really don't want to but 2 more
> ties rods. The ones on there have the grase fitting.
Aha! Who did the installation? It sounds like they didn't tighten things
up properly. If that nut is torqued correctly, it won't come off!
**I called the mechanic who installed a rebuilt TRF steering rack in
February. I expalined to him what I already said to the list. He
idin't say one word. Finally, I told him I thought his work was sloppy
and He was lucky no one was injured or killed. He said "sorry" ad
proceded to tell me how *I* could make the repair! I hung up the phone
convinced he's a dope. I spent alot of money at his shop and will
never do business with him again. He should have at least offered to
look at the car to ensure all was safe; he didn't.
Also, and very important, the shop is Tobo's Foreign Car service in
Northboro, MA.
> The key here is that the tie rod end has a tapered seat... you need the
> whole taper to contact to ensure that the tie rod does not flop around
> in the hole... the result of a bad fit would be that the tie rod end
> could shear. You don't want that to happen, believe me. And those tie rod
> ends can take some pretty big forces from time to time.
>
>
> *** How do I know if the tie rod is seated properly. Both sides look
> the same.
The "boot" should be squished down to the top side of the steering arm,
but it should not "catch" on it (so it won't tear).
If both sides look the same, then you might have to check both sides to
make sure that whoever did the work did it correctly.
>
> FWIW, I believe the standard nut is a 3/8 fine thread...
>
> *** Mine are 1/2 fine thread.
I stand corrected - I was thinking about the sway bar end link bolts...
>
> Just don't leave out the washer.
>
> ***Took the washers out so I could get home. Gotta get new ones.
Yep. Were they boogered up?
*** No. The one that remainded looked fine, but I left it at my
brother's house; 15 miles away. Cheaper to buy new ones.
>
> Note: and don't re-use old nyloc nuts. If you do, you're asking for
> trouble (unless you use locktite)... ask me, I know - I've had lock nuts
> loosen up on my rear axles before... not nice. I have a pretty good stock
> of spare nuts and washers now (thick and thin style).
>
> *** Do you mean if I take off the nut I just put on yesterday in order
> to reinstall washers that I have to buy new nuts? No big deal; on
> $.60/ea.
Replace them. This is two things: one = safety, two = the tie rod ends
should last a long time... if the nylock nut is marginal due to re-use
now, it will be even more marginal in 5 or 10 years. Not replacing them
is false economy. Remember: this is suspension - a problem with the
suspension will most likely happen at the worst time, often with very bad
results. Don't skimp. Or tell me what roads you are using and when so
that I can avoid them... ;-) Seriously, it ain't worth skimping here.
> > Thanks list,
> > Jeff
> > '73 TR6
later,
rml
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