Hi Andy,
> I think the only thing you can really put in backwards would be the
> clutch's friction disk. That may or may not contribute to what
> you're experiencing.
If I'm not mistaken the disc hub is larger on one side than the
other. But I would think that if the wrong side was facing the fly
wheel you wouldn't be able to tighten down the pressure plate. What
I don't understand is why I have so much free movement in the
operating lever (this is the part that holds the throw out bearing).
It just seems like that should have very little free play.
> What other items could be assembled wrong that might
> > cause a similar problem.
>
> The only other thought that comes to mind is the pivot pin for the
> throwout arm. Perhaps it's partially or completely gone?
The pivot pin is rounded on the end like I would expect. It is the
same one that I took out of the car when I bought it.
> It that's the case, sometimes it's possible to kludge around that
> problem without pulling everything out. It can be done temporarily
> or permanently with a nut and bolt of the right length and diameter.
>
> The hydraulic pressure certainly ought to be enough to move anything
> that isn't welded solid. If it all WERE welded solid, I'd think the
> pedal wouldn't go anywhere.
I'm 95% certain that the slave cylinder is being pushed all the way
to the stop ring in the end of the cylinder.
> Maybe the system really ISN'T fully bled? Hard to say.
After bleeding throughly I can push on the clutch pedal and about
half way depressed it acts like it hits something rock solid and
won't budge any further. At this point there is still no movement in
the operating lever.
I think I'll have to break down and tear the tranny out of the car
and look it over. (sigh)
Brad
1964 Spitfire4 BFC25720L (After 10 years will be on the road in
March!!!)
1966 TR4A CT72398L (Car is finally home and ready for
Restoration)
1951 Dodge Truck 82217766 B-3-B-108 (Boxes & Boxes of parts right now)
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