In a message dated 96-08-15 17:06:26 EDT, you write:
<< 2. How do I move the driveshaft out of the way? I removed the four bolts
but the driveshaft still stays connected. I'm not sure if it is sitting
on a lip in the trans rear (or the trnas rear is sitting on a lip in the
driveshaft). Does one just pound the driveshaft towards the rear of the
car? If so how hard?
3. The rear trans mount (the one which has the rubber part for shock
absorbtion) has two bolts angled up at 45 degrees towards the middle of
the car and two pointing straight down towards the bottom. The nuts are
fairly easy to remove from the two angled bolts, meaning the top part of
the mount (the part immediately above the rubber part) will come away
with the trans. Is this the way it's done? I will need to lift the rear
of the trans first before I can start moving it backwards in order to
clear the two angled bolts. Is this the way it's done or will I bend the
input shaft?
4. How much does the trans weigh once its free. (Mine has the J O/D).
Boy what have I got myself into???? >>
Relax, its easier that it seems and you CAN do it ! (if i can anybody can)
All of the following is from memory and its been about 3-5 years since I
did it so I hope other listers will read and correct
me if needed.
First of all, the picture in the Haynes Manual is of a 72 or earlier TR6.
Starting with 1973 the frame mounting point was changed (moved rearward)
to accomadate the J-overdrive. The A-overdrive supplied in 1972 and earlier
had mounting points the same as non-OD gearboxes. Mounting points on
all non-OD gearboxes remained the same but on 73 and later non-OD
gearboxes there is sort of an adapter plate which spans the gap back to
where the mounting points on the frame were moved. The Bentley manuals
also never changed their illustrations after this change was made.
2. No need to pound the drive shaft at all. You will at this point have a
jack
supporting the engine weight at the back of the engine. After disconnecting
the drive shaft at its flange you should be able to jack up the
engine/gearbox A LITTLE and watch the driveshaft come free. (make sure to
have disconnected mounting bolts..See below)
3.Yes, just remove the nuts from the bolts that are at the 45 degree angle
and remove the top part of the mount with the gearbox.
And yes the trans... er ..gearbox (don't want to confuse UK readers) will
have to be lifted a little to clear thses bolts, but this will have been
accomplished when you jack up the engine/gearbox A LITTLE (see above)
So theres no risk of bending the input shaft as the engine and trans are
tilted up a little (back end up a little) when you start to slid the trans
out.
The hardest part is then removing ALL those nuts and bolts which attach the
gearbox to the rear engine plate. The ones at the top are really hard to get
to.
Be sure and slack them all off gradually. If you leave one nut and bolt
firmly
attached while all the others are out, you run the risk of cracking or
breaking
the bell housing at that point. No, I didn't make this mistake, but I did buy
an overdrive gearbox to go in my non-OD TR6 from a DPO who did and had
to get a crack welded up.
Here's the mistake I did make: if the trans...er.. gearbox is going to be out
of
the car for long (more than a day), make sure the jack supporting the rear
of the engine is a mechanical jack or put a jack stand under there somehow.
Even a good hydraulic jack will leak back some fluid if it supports that much
weight long enough and the rear of the engine will begin to settle.
4.The J-overdrive gearbox is considerably heavier than non-OD but you can
still lift it by yourself (have help handy though)
>From memory I'm thinking the non-OD is about 45-50 lbs and the j-overdrive
gearbox was more like about 75 lbs.
Hope all this is clear
Good Luck, would like to hear how it goes !
Jack Mc
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