David, thanks for the feedback.
I'm hoping if/when I buy an enclosed trailer I get it right the first time!
I can see where 3-track would be a problem considering what you're
transporting. Seems like the responses I've been getting favor D-rings
over e-track for vehicle tie down. Maybe I should learn something here :)
I've never owned or used a trailer with the torsion springs which is why
I'm interested in the difference. I think it's something like a $300
adder. Your comments about trailer width pretty much indicate I should go
with the 8'-6" trailer width. Makes sense.
Thanks!
Brad
On Tue, Sep 8, 2015 at 7:37 PM, David Hillman <hillman@planet-torque.com>
wrote:
> On Tue, 8 Sep 2015, Brad Kahler wrote:
>
>> For those of you who may have been down this road I'd like to ask a few
>> questions:
>>
>
> I may or may not be the right guy to ask... I'm on trailer number 4 at
> the moment.
>
> 1) Did you use E-track for tying the car down?
>> 2) If you used E-track how did you fasten it to the floor?
>>
>
> Yes and no. I installed E-track in the floor of my current trailer (
> it came with full wall E-track ). I used it for a while, but in my
> particular case, it did not work well. I haul an iceracer in the trailer,
> and the snow and ice falls off the car, and collects in the E-track, where
> it re-freezes and renders the track useless. The same thing happens with
> dirt, but slower. Eventually I put a couple 6K lb D-rings in, and use
> those instead. The track still comes in handy for moving furniture and the
> like.
>
> I bolted it through the floor every foot, with washers, and then
> screwed every other hole into the floor as well.
>
> 3) If you used E-track how hard is it to tire bonnets with ratchets on a
>> small car like a TR6?
>>
>
> Dunno, never used bonnets as my cars have always had tie-down points.
>
> 4) If you didn't use E-track how did you tie the car down?
>>
>
> Ratchet straps from Lodi Metals in Ohio, run to 6k D-rings at each
> corner. If you are only ever going to haul cars, this is the way to go. I
> made some 1/4" aluminum backing plates on my Plasmacam, drilled 4" diameter
> holes with a holesaw, and bolted them in.
>
> <http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Cargo-Control/Brophy/RR06.html>
>
> 5) Did you get an extended tongue?
>>
>
> No. The only time I ever wanted one was when I installed a tongue box.
> There wasn't room between the WD hitch brackets and the front wall for a
> traditional box, so I had to use a truck-bed side box lightly modified.
>
> 6) Would you prefer a torsion axle over leaf springs?
>>
>
> Yes. There's a reason they are an added cost option virtually
> everywhere.
>
> 7) Did you get any 120vac wiring installed or did you wire it yourself for
>> 120vac?
>>
>
> My current trailer was previously owned by a guy who hauled a junior
> dragster to the track for his kid. He finished the interior walls, and
> wired it with 120v and even surround sound, because they'd sit and play
> videos games in it during downtime at the track.
>
> That said, I have only used the 120v when working ON the trailer...
> like when putting in a new floor, and installing d-rings, and such.
>
> 8) Did you opt for a roof top air conditioner?
>>
>
> No, but mine sits in storage all summer and mainly gets used in the
> dead of winter.
>
> 9) Did you buy a 7' wide, 8' wide or 8'-6" wide trailer? And why did you
>> select that width?
>>
>
> I have had all three widths. You couldn't give me a 7 again. I
> wouldn't buy an 8. I can't think of any reason to go skinny, maybe unless
> you are wedging it into a garage. I bought a 7 because it was cheap, from
> a friend, and my car fit in it ( just ). Then I bought an 8, because I
> learned my lesson. Now I have an 8.5', because I'm a slow learner ;)
>
> --
> David Hillman
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