Tom -
Just a couple of comments/suggestions.
When ever you put on multiple coats of enamel try to do them all within
an 8 hr period and of course do not sand between coats. With many types
of finishes you can run into problems with a second or third coat
attacking the existing partially dry coats causing lifting and
wrinkling. This can also occur when you put a clear finish over a "dry"
enamel. Many clear finishes have strong solvent in them that will cause
this wrinkling. (This is what happens when a lacquer is put over an
enamel) In most cases this can be avoided by putting on the clear
finish within the 8 hrs or after 96 hrs. It appears that you are doing
everything right as far as cleaning solvent, primer, sanding, and
topcoat/clear finish. You must have a very high gloss using this
method.
If you intend to use a clear finish on the main body of your truck you
must get one that has UVA in it. This is a ultraviolet blocker to help
block out the ultraviolet rays from the sun which is the cause of loss
of gloss and yellowing. Pigmented finishes do not require this but all
the new car urethane finishes contain UVA because of the
basecoat/clearcoat method that they use.
If you or anyone out there is contemplating spraying urethane on their
trucks be VERY careful to follow all the instructions for the proper
handling of the catalyst and the proper air makeup/hood and exhaust
required. Urethane catalysts are very toxic and so is the mixed paint
when it is atomized when using a spraygun. It is best left to the pros
at a good bodyshop.
Tom
Tom Poterack
Moline, IL.
'49 Chevy Pickup Retro Rod
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49side1.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49grill.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49tailgate.jpg
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Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Paint info
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 19:45:39 -0500
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Tom, your information is exactly what I needed. Thanks very much for
sending it. Best paint lesson I've gotten since I've been on the list.
In terms of sanding between coats......what I was referring to is whether or
not I should sand between coats if I'm putting on 2 or more coats of paint
on something. For instance, in painting my new wheels, I (a) sanded the
wheels, (b) cleaned them well with alcohol (the rubbing kind....not my good
Jack Daniel's), (c) primed them with sandable primer, (d) sanded the primer
with 600 grit paper, (e) put on a top coat of enamel, (f) put on another top
coat when the first coat dried (about 20 minutes), then (g) put on a clear
coat of acrylic enamel.
Questions this raises are:
1. Any problems using regular enamel for the two topcoats.......then using
acrylic enamel for the last coat?
2. In applying the two topcoats, should I sand each coat before applying
the next coat?
3. I use rubbing alcohol to clean each part after I sand it. Anything that
would work better?
4. Any other tips for getting the very smooth, glossy finish everyone wants?
The process I described above is the same process I used in restoring my
steering wheel, valve cover and air cleaner. Just wondering if I'm doing
anything wrong here. I'm wide open for comments and suggestions from Tom or
anyone. I'm still pretty new at painting and want to be sure I'm doing the
best possible job with rattle can painting. Thanks VERY much for the help!
Tom Caperton
47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
tcape@weblnk.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tom3600@webtv.net>
To: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
Cc: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Paint info
> Tom -
> Having spent more than 40 years in the industrial coatings business, I
> will try to help you with your paint questions.
> 1.& 2. Enamel is a basic air dry or force dry finish that cures or
> hardens by oxidation. Oxidation usually takes about thirty days at
> above 50 degrees to reach final cure or hardness. Acrylic Enamel is
> just enamel that has been modified with acrylic to make it dry faster,
> harder, and sometimes gives better gloss and gloss retention
> (weathering). Usually acrylic enamel is a better all around automotive
> topcoat finish than just straight enamel. I say usually because
> unfortunately some paint manufacturers idea of "acrylic" can just make
> the paint dry fast and be more brittle. Aerosol can paints usually are
> this type of "acrylic finish".
>
> 3. A clear finish coat is only recommended when using urethane
> finishes. A clear coat over an enamel will usually not retain its gloss
> as well as an enamel without clearcoat. Clear enamels will not weather
> well and tend to yellow on exposure to the sun.
>
> 4. A sandable primer is just that "a sandable primer". It has been
> formulated to make it easier to sand when it dries. I would recommend
> using this type of primer at all stages of your repaint.
>
> 5. Yes ... sanding between each coat of primer will give you the best
> results.
>
> 6. You can paint at below 50 degrees but it will tend to run and sag
> and will not dry or cure properly until the substrate reaches a temp of
> 50 degrees or more. This is IMPORTANT the actual metal temperature must
> be over 50 degrees not just the air temperature.
>
> 7. ALWAYS wear a mask when spray painting even when using aerosol cans.
> Your lungs will be a lot happier!
>
> The best advise I can give you is to talk to your local body shop or
> automobile paint supplier about any questions you might have. Also READ
> the labels on the cans...there is a lot of good information there. I am
> happy to answer any questions you might have.
>
> Tom
>
>
> Tom Poterack
> Moline, IL.
> '49 Chevy Pickup Retro Rod
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49.jpg
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49side1.jpg
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49grill.jpg
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49tailgate.jpg
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> From: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
> To: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Paint info
> Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:44:59 -0500
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> Reply-To: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
>
> I'm finally getting to the point where I can get a pretty good paint job
> done (on small things) with the rattle cans. Just got a new set of wheels
> for my '47-2 and have just finished painting them. Turned out pretty
nice.
> I'm still learning about different kinds of paints and I have some
questions
> for you folks who have much more experience with painting.
> 1. What's the difference in "enamel" and "acrylic enamel"?
> 2. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?
> 3. Is adding a clear coat always a good idea? (Ex....painting wheels,
> steering wheels, small parts, etc.)
> 4. When should I use a "sandable primer" vs. regular primer?
> 5. For the smoothest finish, should I sand the primer......then sand each
> coat of paint I apply?
> 6. What's the lowest temperature I should paint in? (I've heard 50
> degrees.)
> 7. During the colder months, I paint indoors (really screwed up my
laundry
> room!). Is a mask necessary when painting indoors?
>
> I greatly appreciate the info!
> Tom Caperton
> 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> tcape@weblnk.net
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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