Tom -
Having spent more than 40 years in the industrial coatings business, I
will try to help you with your paint questions.
1.& 2. Enamel is a basic air dry or force dry finish that cures or
hardens by oxidation. Oxidation usually takes about thirty days at
above 50 degrees to reach final cure or hardness. Acrylic Enamel is
just enamel that has been modified with acrylic to make it dry faster,
harder, and sometimes gives better gloss and gloss retention
(weathering). Usually acrylic enamel is a better all around automotive
topcoat finish than just straight enamel. I say usually because
unfortunately some paint manufacturers idea of "acrylic" can just make
the paint dry fast and be more brittle. Aerosol can paints usually are
this type of "acrylic finish".
3. A clear finish coat is only recommended when using urethane
finishes. A clear coat over an enamel will usually not retain its gloss
as well as an enamel without clearcoat. Clear enamels will not weather
well and tend to yellow on exposure to the sun.
4. A sandable primer is just that "a sandable primer". It has been
formulated to make it easier to sand when it dries. I would recommend
using this type of primer at all stages of your repaint.
5. Yes ... sanding between each coat of primer will give you the best
results.
6. You can paint at below 50 degrees but it will tend to run and sag
and will not dry or cure properly until the substrate reaches a temp of
50 degrees or more. This is IMPORTANT the actual metal temperature must
be over 50 degrees not just the air temperature.
7. ALWAYS wear a mask when spray painting even when using aerosol cans.
Your lungs will be a lot happier!
The best advise I can give you is to talk to your local body shop or
automobile paint supplier about any questions you might have. Also READ
the labels on the cans...there is a lot of good information there. I am
happy to answer any questions you might have.
Tom
Tom Poterack
Moline, IL.
'49 Chevy Pickup Retro Rod
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49side1.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49grill.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49tailgate.jpg
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From: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
To: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Subject: [oletrucks] Paint info
Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:44:59 -0500
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Reply-To: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
I'm finally getting to the point where I can get a pretty good paint job
done (on small things) with the rattle cans. Just got a new set of wheels
for my '47-2 and have just finished painting them. Turned out pretty nice.
I'm still learning about different kinds of paints and I have some questions
for you folks who have much more experience with painting.
1. What's the difference in "enamel" and "acrylic enamel"?
2. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?
3. Is adding a clear coat always a good idea? (Ex....painting wheels,
steering wheels, small parts, etc.)
4. When should I use a "sandable primer" vs. regular primer?
5. For the smoothest finish, should I sand the primer......then sand each
coat of paint I apply?
6. What's the lowest temperature I should paint in? (I've heard 50
degrees.)
7. During the colder months, I paint indoors (really screwed up my laundry
room!). Is a mask necessary when painting indoors?
I greatly appreciate the info!
Tom Caperton
47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
tcape@weblnk.net
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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