Tom -
Actually the topcoat paint should not be sanded unless it is completely
cured. I am assuming you mean that you have painted with topcoat
sometime ago and want to repaint it. If the paint is glossy and cured
(old or new) it should be sanded in order to get proper adhesion between
coats. I recommend that you not topcoat the primer until you are ready
for the final finish coat. (Unless the parts are stored outside).
When you do the final finish coat it should be all applied within a one
or two hour period and then left alone to dry. This is true even with
multiple coats of paint. The best way to paint a complete vehicle with
enamel is to use multiple mist coats to get at all the hard to reach
areas and then go over the entire surface with a final wet glossy finish
and then walk away and don't mess with it because you will just mess it
up with dry overspray or runs.
Most acrylic enamels (catilyzed or not) will have some slight "orange
peel" effect that will disappear as the paint film dries. If you put on
too low of a wet film you will get "dry spray" and if you put on too
much you will get "runs and sags". This is where experience and
practice pays off!
Let me know if this makes sense.
Tom
Tom Poterack
Moline, IL.
'49 Chevy Pickup Retro Rod
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49side1.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49grill.jpg
http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49tailgate.jpg
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Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Paint info
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 11:58:55 -0500
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Perfect information, Tom......exactly what I needed! Thanks very much for
the quick reply. One more question, should I sand each coat of
paint.......or just sand the primer coat?
Thanks!
Tom Caperton
47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
tcape@weblnk.net
----- Original Message -----
From: <Tom3600@webtv.net>
To: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
Cc: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 7:49 AM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] Paint info
> Tom -
> Having spent more than 40 years in the industrial coatings business, I
> will try to help you with your paint questions.
> 1.& 2. Enamel is a basic air dry or force dry finish that cures or
> hardens by oxidation. Oxidation usually takes about thirty days at
> above 50 degrees to reach final cure or hardness. Acrylic Enamel is
> just enamel that has been modified with acrylic to make it dry faster,
> harder, and sometimes gives better gloss and gloss retention
> (weathering). Usually acrylic enamel is a better all around automotive
> topcoat finish than just straight enamel. I say usually because
> unfortunately some paint manufacturers idea of "acrylic" can just make
> the paint dry fast and be more brittle. Aerosol can paints usually are
> this type of "acrylic finish".
>
> 3. A clear finish coat is only recommended when using urethane
> finishes. A clear coat over an enamel will usually not retain its gloss
> as well as an enamel without clearcoat. Clear enamels will not weather
> well and tend to yellow on exposure to the sun.
>
> 4. A sandable primer is just that "a sandable primer". It has been
> formulated to make it easier to sand when it dries. I would recommend
> using this type of primer at all stages of your repaint.
>
> 5. Yes ... sanding between each coat of primer will give you the best
> results.
>
> 6. You can paint at below 50 degrees but it will tend to run and sag
> and will not dry or cure properly until the substrate reaches a temp of
> 50 degrees or more. This is IMPORTANT the actual metal temperature must
> be over 50 degrees not just the air temperature.
>
> 7. ALWAYS wear a mask when spray painting even when using aerosol cans.
> Your lungs will be a lot happier!
>
> The best advise I can give you is to talk to your local body shop or
> automobile paint supplier about any questions you might have. Also READ
> the labels on the cans...there is a lot of good information there. I am
> happy to answer any questions you might have.
>
> Tom
>
>
> Tom Poterack
> Moline, IL.
> '49 Chevy Pickup Retro Rod
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49.jpg
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49side1.jpg
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49grill.jpg
> http://www.chevytrucks.org/users/wayne/tom49tailgate.jpg
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> From: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
> To: "Oletrucks" <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> Subject: [oletrucks] Paint info
> Date: Tue, 9 Jan 2001 21:44:59 -0500
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> Reply-To: "tcape" <tcape@weblnk.net>
>
> I'm finally getting to the point where I can get a pretty good paint job
> done (on small things) with the rattle cans. Just got a new set of wheels
> for my '47-2 and have just finished painting them. Turned out pretty
nice.
> I'm still learning about different kinds of paints and I have some
questions
> for you folks who have much more experience with painting.
> 1. What's the difference in "enamel" and "acrylic enamel"?
> 2. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each?
> 3. Is adding a clear coat always a good idea? (Ex....painting wheels,
> steering wheels, small parts, etc.)
> 4. When should I use a "sandable primer" vs. regular primer?
> 5. For the smoothest finish, should I sand the primer......then sand each
> coat of paint I apply?
> 6. What's the lowest temperature I should paint in? (I've heard 50
> degrees.)
> 7. During the colder months, I paint indoors (really screwed up my
laundry
> room!). Is a mask necessary when painting indoors?
>
> I greatly appreciate the info!
> Tom Caperton
> 47-2nd 3100....in Whiteville, NC
> tcape@weblnk.net
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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