This method sounds like it could be a good way to go, because if the cut
for a butt weld is not close enough then it would take extra welding
time and possibly warp the sheet metal more the desired. I'll try to
find as much info as i can on the technique and any others that might
work.
thxs
Ross 51 Chevy LB
B&A Kettunen wrote:
>
> The easiest way to do it, especially if you can't see the back side, is to
> cut the old metal about 1/2" in from the outside of the patch panel.
> Eastwood and others sell a flanging tool made from a vise grip that will
> offset that 1/2" overlap so that the patch panel lays flush on top of it.
> Then you have a lap weld in place of a butt weld, and even I can do that
> <G>.
>
> Northern Hydraulics even sells a pneumatic flanger for this, lots easier.
>
> Around here we can get some real powerful magnets that hold the panels
> together while welding. You can also use some special clips that look like
> pop rivets on steroids and patch the holes later, or use pop rivets if you
> can keep them from melting.
>
> You still have to stitch the weld together to keep the metal from warping.
>
> Bruce Kettunen
> '57 3100
>
> >a friend of mine replaced the cab corner on my '57, he cut it out the same
> >shape and size of the patch panel, he didnt cut the patch at all, and butt
> >welded it up, he didnt use one bead, it did a lot of spot welds with it
> >until it was all filled in, then he did the same on the inside of the cab.
> >then after all that he ground down the welds, spread next to no plastic
> >filler, sanded, wet sanded and primed, it was all done in a day and a half,
> >its a very nice, smooth patch job, no warps, no bends, no pits.
> >Brian
> >Jess--'57 chevy 4300
> >
> >oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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