The easiest way to do it, especially if you can't see the back side, is to
cut the old metal about 1/2" in from the outside of the patch panel.
Eastwood and others sell a flanging tool made from a vise grip that will
offset that 1/2" overlap so that the patch panel lays flush on top of it.
Then you have a lap weld in place of a butt weld, and even I can do that
<G>.
Northern Hydraulics even sells a pneumatic flanger for this, lots easier.
Around here we can get some real powerful magnets that hold the panels
together while welding. You can also use some special clips that look like
pop rivets on steroids and patch the holes later, or use pop rivets if you
can keep them from melting.
You still have to stitch the weld together to keep the metal from warping.
Bruce Kettunen
'57 3100
>a friend of mine replaced the cab corner on my '57, he cut it out the same
>shape and size of the patch panel, he didnt cut the patch at all, and butt
>welded it up, he didnt use one bead, it did a lot of spot welds with it
>until it was all filled in, then he did the same on the inside of the cab.
>then after all that he ground down the welds, spread next to no plastic
>filler, sanded, wet sanded and primed, it was all done in a day and a half,
>its a very nice, smooth patch job, no warps, no bends, no pits.
>Brian
>Jess--'57 chevy 4300
>
>oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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