I was referring the OSB to the roof panels. the t-11 is so pretty that I
will use it whether its morework or not. One thought is to use
Structural Insulated panels. that is 2 sheets of OSB with strofoam as a
medium. No studs, insulation is already there, T111 will be a breeze to
throw up on the outside and on the inside, its already walled. it will
save a lot of work and $$$. It comes in 4 inch to 10 or 12 inch
thickness.
Steve wrote:
> I HATE to paint so substituted OSB for the T111 and
> Vinyl Sided the pole barn to match the house (grey).
> It only cost $200 of $300 more than the T111, probably
> saved most of that in paint. I only have 10 ft
> clearence whish I had made it taller would be nice for
> pulling engines.
>
> --- ADvent@thuntek.net wrote:
> > One thing to consider when thinking about metal
> > buildings is the snow load. In
> > Ok. City, there is not a snow problem. I used to
> > live in Enid, north of Yukon 90
> > miles which is just west of Ok. City and it never
> > did snow that much. Metal may
> > just be fine. i live in snow country where 16 feet
> > of snow in one winter is not
> > uncommon. Those metal buildings cannot take that
> > kind of snow. What do you think
> > would happen if you got a 3 foot wet snow and all
> > that weight is pressing down
> > on the roof? besides metal buildings look like a
> > converted gas station. My shop
> > I am building is a 24X24X12 feet with 5/12 pitch and
> > I am considering scissor
> > trusses for even more clearance in the middle. My
> > walls will be 2X6's and 16" on
> > center with T-111 siding. It will look very nice and
> > be strong with about a 60
> > pound snow load. You could park a couple pickups on
> > the roof and not worry. And
> > 5/8 plywood or OSB for roof sheathing will make a
> > roof that will last longer
> > than I will. My footing is 18" wide by 18" deep with
> > a 6" stem wall from a foot
> > in the back to 3 feet high in the front. Next week,
> > I hope to pout the stem
> > wall, the forms are all ready. The slab will be 4"
> > with the new fiber instead of
> > wire and along the walls the slab will be thicker,
> > maybe about 18" so I can
> > mount a lift inside. i can't do the heavy shovel
> > work myself, so I would rather
> > pay more for concrete and fill with that. It will
> > increase my concrete cost
> > about a hundred bucks, much less than the labor to
> > fill with dirt and the
> > compacting time. Concrete is cheap. Why fill with
> > dirt and pay someone to do it
> > when you can pour that concrete in a hour or so? All
> > in all, it is cheaper. I
> > used 7½ yards for my footings, but I didn't have a
> > lot of labor to pay. My
> > footings cost me about $350 with payed labor from my
> > neighbors. Any comments?
> >
> > Deve Krehbiel wrote:
> >
> > > For my 6600 sq ft metal building, I went with BC
> > Steel Buildings out of
> > > Oklahoma City. The size you want wont be the
> > project mine was so I would
> > > consider a metal structure for durability.
> > Besides, when you price lumber
> > > you will see why everyone is going with steel.
> > Have a professional pour the
> > > concrete complete with stud bolts per the really
> > nice blueprints you get
> > > with your building, and you are off and running. I
> > found borrowing a
> > > forklift to be a real lifesaver. Its an ackward
> > job to do yourself since you
> > > need to put 4" insulation between the sheets of
> > metal, but I devised a few
> > > tools to hold things in place. Took me about 1-1/2
> > months to complete. My
> > > arms were quite sore after driving a few thousand
> > of those self tapping
> > > screws, but it was more than worth it!
> > >
> > > When you are ready to partition the inside, I will
> > share with you how to
> > > turn discarded pallets (the ones that use 2x4's)
> > into very strong 2x4 stud
> > > walls by joining the ends (for the required
> > length) using a table mounted
> > > router, a finger joint bit, and a home-made
> > pressing table to compress the
> > > joints. That is if you have a source for pallets.
> > I have made over 2000
> > > studs and partitioned my building with them. It
> > was an investment in time,
> > > but the lumber was free as opposed to somewhere
> > around $3.00 a stud. The end
> > > result is straighter and stronger than the pine
> > studs you can buy nowadays
> > > cut outta new trees (since there is nothing else
> > left).
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Wayne Pratt" <wpratt@ipa.net>
> > > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 9:08 AM
> > > Subject: [oletrucks] shop buildings
> > >
> > > > Hey Guys,
> > > > Several weeks ago there was some comment on the
> > list about building
> > > > shops. I am looking at several options while
> > trying to keep the cost to
> > > > some reasonable limit.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone have any experience with the arch
> > type buildings such as
> > > > Steelmaster, or the truss type such as Miracle
> > Truss? I am also thinking
> > > > about doing a traditional stick built structure.
> > > >
> > > > I am thinking about a 20X36 building with 10 ft.
> > walls, as the home for
> > > > my 53AD 3100 retirement project. Everything
> > else will just sit outside
> > > > or under the carport
> > > >
> > > > Wayne Pratt
> > > > 53 3100
> > > >
> > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks
> > built between 1941 and 1959
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> > between 1941 and 1959
> >
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