I HATE to paint so substituted OSB for the T111 and
Vinyl Sided the pole barn to match the house (grey).
It only cost $200 of $300 more than the T111, probably
saved most of that in paint. I only have 10 ft
clearence whish I had made it taller would be nice for
pulling engines.
--- ADvent@thuntek.net wrote:
> One thing to consider when thinking about metal
> buildings is the snow load. In
> Ok. City, there is not a snow problem. I used to
> live in Enid, north of Yukon 90
> miles which is just west of Ok. City and it never
> did snow that much. Metal may
> just be fine. i live in snow country where 16 feet
> of snow in one winter is not
> uncommon. Those metal buildings cannot take that
> kind of snow. What do you think
> would happen if you got a 3 foot wet snow and all
> that weight is pressing down
> on the roof? besides metal buildings look like a
> converted gas station. My shop
> I am building is a 24X24X12 feet with 5/12 pitch and
> I am considering scissor
> trusses for even more clearance in the middle. My
> walls will be 2X6's and 16" on
> center with T-111 siding. It will look very nice and
> be strong with about a 60
> pound snow load. You could park a couple pickups on
> the roof and not worry. And
> 5/8 plywood or OSB for roof sheathing will make a
> roof that will last longer
> than I will. My footing is 18" wide by 18" deep with
> a 6" stem wall from a foot
> in the back to 3 feet high in the front. Next week,
> I hope to pout the stem
> wall, the forms are all ready. The slab will be 4"
> with the new fiber instead of
> wire and along the walls the slab will be thicker,
> maybe about 18" so I can
> mount a lift inside. i can't do the heavy shovel
> work myself, so I would rather
> pay more for concrete and fill with that. It will
> increase my concrete cost
> about a hundred bucks, much less than the labor to
> fill with dirt and the
> compacting time. Concrete is cheap. Why fill with
> dirt and pay someone to do it
> when you can pour that concrete in a hour or so? All
> in all, it is cheaper. I
> used 7½ yards for my footings, but I didn't have a
> lot of labor to pay. My
> footings cost me about $350 with payed labor from my
> neighbors. Any comments?
>
> Deve Krehbiel wrote:
>
> > For my 6600 sq ft metal building, I went with BC
> Steel Buildings out of
> > Oklahoma City. The size you want wont be the
> project mine was so I would
> > consider a metal structure for durability.
> Besides, when you price lumber
> > you will see why everyone is going with steel.
> Have a professional pour the
> > concrete complete with stud bolts per the really
> nice blueprints you get
> > with your building, and you are off and running. I
> found borrowing a
> > forklift to be a real lifesaver. Its an ackward
> job to do yourself since you
> > need to put 4" insulation between the sheets of
> metal, but I devised a few
> > tools to hold things in place. Took me about 1-1/2
> months to complete. My
> > arms were quite sore after driving a few thousand
> of those self tapping
> > screws, but it was more than worth it!
> >
> > When you are ready to partition the inside, I will
> share with you how to
> > turn discarded pallets (the ones that use 2x4's)
> into very strong 2x4 stud
> > walls by joining the ends (for the required
> length) using a table mounted
> > router, a finger joint bit, and a home-made
> pressing table to compress the
> > joints. That is if you have a source for pallets.
> I have made over 2000
> > studs and partitioned my building with them. It
> was an investment in time,
> > but the lumber was free as opposed to somewhere
> around $3.00 a stud. The end
> > result is straighter and stronger than the pine
> studs you can buy nowadays
> > cut outta new trees (since there is nothing else
> left).
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Wayne Pratt" <wpratt@ipa.net>
> > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 9:08 AM
> > Subject: [oletrucks] shop buildings
> >
> > > Hey Guys,
> > > Several weeks ago there was some comment on the
> list about building
> > > shops. I am looking at several options while
> trying to keep the cost to
> > > some reasonable limit.
> > >
> > > Does anyone have any experience with the arch
> type buildings such as
> > > Steelmaster, or the truss type such as Miracle
> Truss? I am also thinking
> > > about doing a traditional stick built structure.
> > >
> > > I am thinking about a 20X36 building with 10 ft.
> walls, as the home for
> > > my 53AD 3100 retirement project. Everything
> else will just sit outside
> > > or under the carport
> > >
> > > Wayne Pratt
> > > 53 3100
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks
> built between 1941 and 1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built
> between 1941 and 1959
>
Do You Yahoo!?
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
|