I am going to go with T111 (18.35ea.) for the siding and osb(8.35ea) and
shingles (17.95 sq.).As for the concrete a mere $54.00 a yard.I am an
electrician so the wiring is a mere get to it.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Damen <little-castle-contracting@cadvision.com>
To: <ADvent@thuntek.net>
Cc: Deve Krehbiel <dkrehbiel@kscable.com>; <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 4:46 PM
Subject: Re: [oletrucks] shop buildings
> each to their own i guess. I've built some pretty nice buildings. the
colored
> siding comes in allot of different colors and you could even go with vinal
siding if
> you want it to look like a home.. you could use ply wood on the roof i
guess if you
> were worried about snow load. and i wonder about all these dumbes in the
mountains
> that use metal roof systems.... all their houses must be full of snow by
the
> winters end? ( reason to use metal is the snow slides off of it much
easier) lol..
> not sure where your going with all this. the trusses take the load....
im not one
> to say a persons full of sh*t but a cubic yard of concrete here is a
bout $140.
> and i can get 10 yards of gravel for that???? Fred Flintstone a friend
of yours?
>
> Good luck. as i said in my previous email. each to their own... if you
want to go
> the way your going great.. i only have to try to keep my wife happy. and
im in no
> way trying to make you happy... it seems
>
> lol
>
> Bruce
> 1949 chev 1/2 ton
>
> ADvent@thuntek.net wrote:
>
> > One thing to consider when thinking about metal buildings is the snow
load. In
> > Ok. City, there is not a snow problem. I used to live in Enid, north of
Yukon 90
> > miles which is just west of Ok. City and it never did snow that much.
Metal may
> > just be fine. i live in snow country where 16 feet of snow in one winter
is not
> > uncommon. Those metal buildings cannot take that kind of snow. What do
you think
> > would happen if you got a 3 foot wet snow and all that weight is
pressing down
> > on the roof? besides metal buildings look like a converted gas station.
My shop
> > I am building is a 24X24X12 feet with 5/12 pitch and I am considering
scissor
> > trusses for even more clearance in the middle. My walls will be 2X6's
and 16" on
> > center with T-111 siding. It will look very nice and be strong with
about a 60
> > pound snow load. You could park a couple pickups on the roof and not
worry. And
> > 5/8 plywood or OSB for roof sheathing will make a roof that will last
longer
> > than I will. My footing is 18" wide by 18" deep with a 6" stem wall from
a foot
> > in the back to 3 feet high in the front. Next week, I hope to pout the
stem
> > wall, the forms are all ready. The slab will be 4" with the new fiber
instead of
> > wire and along the walls the slab will be thicker, maybe about 18" so I
can
> > mount a lift inside. i can't do the heavy shovel work myself, so I would
rather
> > pay more for concrete and fill with that. It will increase my concrete
cost
> > about a hundred bucks, much less than the labor to fill with dirt and
the
> > compacting time. Concrete is cheap. Why fill with dirt and pay someone
to do it
> > when you can pour that concrete in a hour or so? All in all, it is
cheaper. I
> > used 7½ yards for my footings, but I didn't have a lot of labor to pay.
My
> > footings cost me about $350 with payed labor from my neighbors. Any
comments?
> >
> > Deve Krehbiel wrote:
> >
> > > For my 6600 sq ft metal building, I went with BC Steel Buildings out
of
> > > Oklahoma City. The size you want wont be the project mine was so I
would
> > > consider a metal structure for durability. Besides, when you price
lumber
> > > you will see why everyone is going with steel. Have a professional
pour the
> > > concrete complete with stud bolts per the really nice blueprints you
get
> > > with your building, and you are off and running. I found borrowing a
> > > forklift to be a real lifesaver. Its an ackward job to do yourself
since you
> > > need to put 4" insulation between the sheets of metal, but I devised a
few
> > > tools to hold things in place. Took me about 1-1/2 months to complete.
My
> > > arms were quite sore after driving a few thousand of those self
tapping
> > > screws, but it was more than worth it!
> > >
> > > When you are ready to partition the inside, I will share with you how
to
> > > turn discarded pallets (the ones that use 2x4's) into very strong 2x4
stud
> > > walls by joining the ends (for the required length) using a table
mounted
> > > router, a finger joint bit, and a home-made pressing table to compress
the
> > > joints. That is if you have a source for pallets. I have made over
2000
> > > studs and partitioned my building with them. It was an investment in
time,
> > > but the lumber was free as opposed to somewhere around $3.00 a stud.
The end
> > > result is straighter and stronger than the pine studs you can buy
nowadays
> > > cut outta new trees (since there is nothing else left).
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Wayne Pratt" <wpratt@ipa.net>
> > > To: <oletrucks@autox.team.net>
> > > Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2000 9:08 AM
> > > Subject: [oletrucks] shop buildings
> > >
> > > > Hey Guys,
> > > > Several weeks ago there was some comment on the list about building
> > > > shops. I am looking at several options while trying to keep the
cost to
> > > > some reasonable limit.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone have any experience with the arch type buildings such as
> > > > Steelmaster, or the truss type such as Miracle Truss? I am also
thinking
> > > > about doing a traditional stick built structure.
> > > >
> > > > I am thinking about a 20X36 building with 10 ft. walls, as the home
for
> > > > my 53AD 3100 retirement project. Everything else will just sit
outside
> > > > or under the carport
> > > >
> > > > Wayne Pratt
> > > > 53 3100
> > > >
> > > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> > >
> > > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and
1959
> >
> > oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
> oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
>
>
oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959
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