Snow loads are a definet concern for sure. I am on the farm here in Sask.
and we do some winters get a fair bit of snow and is always cold dry stuff.
My shop is 32x48 Wood archrib. We built this one in the mid 80's. I have
asphault shingles on it and snow will stick a little but not enough to
create a problem. I have put sheet steel on all of my other buildings on the
farm and think that is far supperior to anything else. We have even put it
on our house which was built in 1917, and has 8in 12 pitch. Believe me no
snow sticks to it!
We insulated to r20 in the walls and r40 in the cieling and heat with
overhead natural gas radiant heat. We mix our own cement with a mixer
mounted on a small tractor, as redi mix here costs about $110 a yd. Can. The
curved walls are a little tough to deal with as per room etc, but can be
dealt with. I made an overhead hoist out of 3x6" rectangular tubing on heavy
castors, which i wheel back into the end of the shop out of the road when
not in use, It has an i beam across the top and a trolly that can be rolled
from side to side. If I were to build another shop, i would prob, consider
the 8x8" post walls, for the cost factor. Sorry for being long winded here,
just my two cents worth!
Murray.
--
>One thing to consider when thinking about metal buildings is the snow load.
In
>Ok. City, there is not a snow problem. I used to live in Enid, north of
Yukon 90
>miles which is just west of Ok. City and it never did snow that much. Metal
may
>just be fine. i live in snow country where 16 feet of snow in one winter is
not
>uncommon. Those metal buildings cannot take that kind of snow. What do you
think
>would happen if you got a 3 foot wet snow and all that weight is pressing
down
>on the roof? besides metal buildings look like a converted gas station. My
shop
>I am building is a 24X24X12 feet with 5/12 pitch and I am considering
scissor
>trusses for even more clearance in the middle. My walls will be 2X6's and
16" on
>center with T-111 siding. It will look very nice and be strong with about a
60
>pound snow load. You could park a couple pickups on the roof and not worry.
And
>5/8 plywood or OSB for roof sheathing will make a roof that will last
longer
>than I will. My footing is 18" wide by 18" deep with a 6" stem wall from a
foot
>in the back to 3 feet high in the front. Next week, I hope to pout the stem
>wall, the forms are all ready. The slab will be 4" with the new fiber
instead of
>wire and along the walls the slab will be thicker, maybe about 18" so I can
>mount a lift inside. i can't do the heavy shovel work myself, so I would
rather
>pay more for concrete and fill with that. It will increase my concrete cost
>about a hundred bucks, much less than the labor to fill with dirt and the
>compacting time. Concrete is cheap. Why fill with dirt and pay someone to
do it
>when you can pour that concrete in a hour or so? All in all, it is cheaper.
I
>used 7½ yards for my footings, but I didn't have a lot of labor to pay. My
>footings cost me about $350 with payed labor from my neighbors. Any
comments?
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