<<Echo Barney's post. Make sure the spacer is there the nut should tighten
fully with no change in hub play. The spacer adds a tremendous amount of
strength to the stub axle, and should be there.>>
2nd echo and agreed, Kelvin.
<<From my experience I don't bother with a dial gauge to set the end play.>>
Ditto.
<< I set the shims so there is just a smidgeon of play when the nut is
tightened
down. A smidgeon means that with a wheel on, I can detect movement when I
pull on the bottom of the tire.>>
So you don't even read your own (Moss's) "Front Suspension Advice" notes nor
the copy thereof on Ed Kaler's Web Site on how to do???
<<Buy a bearing packer. It's a pair of cones, mounted on a threaded center
which has a grease zerk. Put the bearing between the two cones, then pump
the center full of grease till it oozes through the rollers. They are cheap
and available from any good parts store.>>
Agreed. Style/type does not matter (couple different ones on market).
<<AFAIA all of the pre-packaged bearing kits on the market are of good
quality. >>
Not the ones Moss sells with the "Jap Crap" bearings!!
Ed is a neighbor and I am a customer. He just got in a QH Kit for MGB.
Inner bearings = Jap. Outer = USA Timken.???
He RE-ordered stating SPECIFICALLY "NO ASIAN crap" AFTER having an e-mail
with you about "supplier" of individual parts instead of "kits" (he showed
me) which you advised where American (not including seal which was UK).
WHAT did he get you may ask?? BOTH sets of bearings = JAP!!!
Yes, they were for MY car. And I appreciate what Ed strives to achieve in
getting CORRECT (or next to) parts for not only my car but the rest of his
customers!!
Crass, at times, he can be; BUT he no speaketh with fork tongue (unlike some
others I can think of)!!
Regards...............
Will
PS:
Pics will be up on his site soon (I hope)!
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