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Yes this could turn into an all familiar thread on oils however lets just g=
o back to what every factory service/workshop manual all say about the main=
tenance or service of the wire wheel splines, =E2=80=9CA little grease shou=
ld be smeared upon the splines and cone faces of the hub and wheel before r=
efitting.=E2=80=9D
Perry
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
From: Mirek Sharp
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM
To: 'Perry'
Perhaps a little tangential to the main thread, and fully aware of the like=
lihood of me being accused of being pedantic (which never happens on this l=
ist =E2=98=BA), but regarding what to use on splines to stop the wheel seiz=
ing on, I have never understood why the recommendation is always for grease=
.=C2=A0 Grease is designed to lubricate parts, whereas=C2=A0 the intent of =
applying it to the splines is to prevent them seizing on, not reduce fricti=
on (i.e., lubricate).=C2=A0 For that reason I have always used an anti-seiz=
ing product, my favourite being Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they =
call it a lubricant, but woe betide anyone who actually uses it to lubricat=
e). It should be used very sparingly, and I have never had an issue with a =
wheel sizing on the splines.=C2=A0 A very fine smear of grease on the outsi=
de of the taper on the knock-off I agree is a good thing as the intent ther=
e IS to lubricate.=C2=A0 Also, providing it is used sparingly, I have never=
had it seep out of the hub and onto the spokes, avoiding the (in my opinio=
n) terrible practice of smearing sillycone (mis-spell intended) over the sp=
oke heads inside the hub.=C2=A0 Not to say grease does not work, it will, b=
ut why not use a product designed for the purpose, and achieve clean spokes=
at the same time?
Cheers, Mirek
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs
Replacement parts-not NOS-what if the knockoff=C2=A0 bottoms out on the spl=
ine face before it tightens to the cone of the wire wheel?=C2=A0 A combinat=
ion of measured errors on replacement parts could create this condition-fro=
nt to back. The knockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon.=C2=
=A0 If properly applied each side they are self tightening and I normally s=
pin them on hand tight, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in th=
e air, and then wack them one more time on the ground with the copper side =
of Thor.
One time in the early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knocko=
ff of the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long han=
dle sledge hammer!=C2=A0 Flat ears? you betcha.
I would make sure that when mounted, the front edge of the wheel is just fo=
rward of the inner depth of the knockoff so that it actually contacts metal=
as it snugs it to the rear ring on the hub.=C2=A0
Also-grease-not to much- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff=
threads have a light smear. I use HD wheel bearing grease=C2=A0 so it does=
n't seep out the spoke nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank
-----------------------------------------
From: "Perry via Healeys"=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III Knock offs
Michael et al,
Contemplate the mechanical connections between the hub extension, wire whee=
l hub and the knockoff.=20
The hub extension is bolted to the axle using tapered nuts that seat in the=
face of the extension. No rotational movement.
The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The toler=
ances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have t=
o be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension.=20
What else holds the wheel in place=E2=80=A6the knockoff. The cone in the kn=
ock off forces the wire wheel hub against the hub extension, The contact in=
terface is the tapers on the hub extension and the wire wheel hub. You know=
the little area that we are frequently reminded to apply a smear of grease=
to stop the little squeaky noise at low speed. If the knock off is tight e=
nough there is not movement here either.
So Mike, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the =
knock off is not tight enough.=C2=A0=20
Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs understood the problem of =
owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used the handed (left an=
d right) threads that self tighten.=20
Gentlemen, remember your Mother today!
Perry
=C2=A0
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
=C2=A0
Subject: [Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III
=C2=A0
At my age (approaching this side of 70) I am on lock down at my house.=C2=
=A0 I even have my groceries delivered.=C2=A0 I will only go out to eat at =
a drive through with an N95 mask on.=C2=A0 My Boston Terrier that goes with=
me does not wear one.=C2=A0 He refuses, but he is only three years old.=C2=
=A0 So, being sequestered to my domicile I have taken up the restoration of=
my BN2 with a vengeance.=C2=A0 I did not know I knew so many off color phr=
ases.=C2=A0 Everything to be done on this car is difficult due to parts inc=
ompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailability or just=C2=A0 my general igno=
rance and/or incompetence.=C2=A0 This evening I finished mounting the right=
side front hub with all new parts.=C2=A0 I thought I had done a nice job.=
=C2=A0 No lateral play in the hub.=C2=A0 Turns easily without binding.=C2=
=A0 The correct amount of shims after much trial and error.=C2=A0 Disc brak=
e conversion was mounted and braided stainless steel flex brake lines hooke=
d up at both ends.=C2=A0 I have yet to run the brake lines.=C2=A0 Maybe nex=
t.=C2=A0=C2=A0 This rant is about the brand new Dayton wire wheels.=C2=A0 I=
mounted the wire wheels which have temporary used tires on them so I can m=
ove the car when it is down off the dollies.=C2=A0 After mounting the wheel=
I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty good whacks.=C2=A0 Now the mo=
ment of truth.=C2=A0 I grabbed the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock position and pu=
lled straight back and forth.=C2=A0 Yay! No play, but when I rocked the whe=
el it moved slightly.=C2=A0 I thought it was the hub, but looking closely y=
ou can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and forth in the knockoff!=C2=A0=
What!?!=C2=A0 How hard are you supposed to hit those knockoffs?
Mike MacLean
=C2=A0
--_6BC978B6-0DD2-4E2A-835F-668830D6F5CD_
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--></style></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3D"#954F72"><div cla=
ss=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Yes this could turn into an all fami=
liar thread on oils however lets just go back to what every factory service=
/workshop manual all say about the maintenance or service of the wire wheel=
splines, =E2=80=9CA little grease should be smeared upon the splines and c=
one faces of the hub and wheel before refitting.=E2=80=9D</p><p class=3DMso=
Normal>Perry</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNor=
mal>Sent from <a href=3D"https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986";>=
Mail</a> for Windows 10</p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div s=
tyle=3D'mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.=
0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'border:none;pa=
dding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href=3D"mailto:m.g.sharp@sympatico.ca";>Mirek Sha=
rp</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Sunday, May 10, 2020 7:36 PM<br><b>To: </b><a href=
=3D"mailto:healeyguy@aol.com";>'Perry'</a><br><br><o:p></o:p></p></div><p cl=
ass=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>Perhaps a little tangential to the main =
thread, and fully aware of the likelihood of me being accused of being peda=
ntic (which never happens on this list </span><span lang=3DEN-CA style=3D'f=
ont-family:Wingdings'>J</span><span lang=3DEN-CA>), but regarding what to u=
se on splines to stop the wheel seizing on, I have never understood why the=
recommendation is always for grease. Grease is designed to lubricate=
parts, whereas the intent of applying it to the splines is to preven=
t them seizing on, not reduce friction (i.e., lubricate). For that re=
ason I have always used an anti-seizing product, my favourite being Permate=
x Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant (they call it a lubricant, but woe betide any=
one who actually uses it to lubricate). It should be used very sparingly, a=
nd I have never had an issue with a wheel sizing on the splines. A ve=
ry fine smear of grease on the outside of the taper on the knock-off I agre=
e is a good thing as the intent there IS to lubricate. Also, providin=
g it is used sparingly, I have never had it seep out of the hub and onto th=
e spokes, avoiding the (in my opinion) terrible practice of smearing sillyc=
one (mis-spell intended) over the spoke heads inside the hub. Not to =
say grease does not work, it will, but why not use a product designed for t=
he purpose, and achieve clean spokes at the same time?<o:p></o:p></span></p=
><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p cla=
ss=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>Cheers, Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><=
div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0=
in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family=
:"Tahoma",sans-serif'>Subject:</span></b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;fo=
nt-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'> Re: [Healeys] Part III Knock offs<o:p></o:p=
></span></p></div></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA><o:p> =
</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>Replacement parts-=
not NOS-what if the knockoff bottoms out on the spline face before it=
tightens to the cone of the wire wheel? A combination of measured er=
rors on replacement parts could create this condition-front to back. The kn=
ockoffs were made to tighten, but not be whaled upon. If properly app=
lied each side they are self tightening and I normally spin them on hand ti=
ght, hit them with the rawhide snug while still up in the air, and then wac=
k them one more time on the ground with the copper side of Thor.<o:p></o:p>=
</span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA><o:p> </o:p></=
span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>One time in the=
early '70s I witnessed a BMC "mechanic" whaling on a knockoff of=
the Healey, still hanging on the lube rack, with a ten pound long handle s=
ledge hammer! Flat ears? you betcha.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div>=
<p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><=
div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>I would make sure that when mou=
nted, the front edge of the wheel is just forward of the inner depth of the=
knockoff so that it actually contacts metal as it snugs it to the rear rin=
g on the hub. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><s=
pan lang=3DEN-CA><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNorma=
l style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span lang=3DEN-CA>Also-grease-not to much=
- but be sure splines, and ring of hub, and knockoff threads have a light s=
mear. I use HD wheel bearing grease so it doesn't seep out the spoke =
nibs like moly or light grease would. Hank<o:p></o:p></span></p><p><span la=
ng=3DEN-CA>-----------------------------------------<o:p></o:p></span></p><=
p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span lang=3DEN-CA>From:=
"Perry via Healeys" <br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] The Saturday Nigh=
t Rant - Part III Knock offs</span><span lang=3DEN-CA style=3D'font-size:12=
.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif'><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3D=
MsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>Michael et al,<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=
=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>Contemplate the mechanical connections betw=
een the hub extension, wire wheel hub and the knockoff. <o:p></o:p></span><=
/p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>The hub extension is bolted to t=
he axle using tapered nuts that seat in the face of the extension. No rotat=
ional movement.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-C=
A>The wire wheel is connected to the hub extension via the splines. The tol=
erances in the splines may allow for some rotational movement but they have=
to be loose enough to get the wheel off the extension. <o:p></o:p></span><=
/p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>What else holds the wheel in pla=
ce=E2=80=A6the knockoff. The cone in the knock off forces the wire wheel hu=
b against the hub extension, The contact interface is the tapers on the hub=
extension and the wire wheel hub. You know the little area that we are fre=
quently reminded to apply a smear of grease to stop the little squeaky nois=
e at low speed. If the knock off is tight enough there is not movement here=
either.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>So Mi=
ke, if you see movement between the knock off and the wire wheel, the knock=
off is not tight enough. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>=
<span lang=3DEN-CA>Suspect that the folks that developed knock offs underst=
ood the problem of owners/mechanics not getting them tight enough and used =
the handed (left and right) threads that self tighten. <o:p></o:p></span></=
p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>Gentlemen, remember your Mother t=
oday!<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>Perry<o:=
p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA> <o:p></o:p=
></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA>Sent from <a href=3D"ht=
tps://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=3D550986">Mail</a> for Windows 10<o:p=
></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA> <o:p></o:p>=
</span></p><div style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding=
:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA><br><b>Subject:=
</b>[Healeys] The Saturday Night Rant - Part III<o:p></o:p></span></p></di=
v><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA> <o:p></o:p></span></p><div>=
<div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font=
-family:"Times New Roman",serif'>At my age (approaching this side of 70) I =
am on lock down at my house. I even have my groceries delivered. =
; I will only go out to eat at a drive through with an N95 mask on. M=
y Boston Terrier that goes with me does not wear one. He refuses, but=
he is only three years old. So, being sequestered to my domicile I h=
ave taken up the restoration of my BN2 with a vengeance. I did not kn=
ow I knew so many off color phrases. Everything to be done on this ca=
r is difficult due to parts incompatibility, parts fit, parts unavailabilit=
y or just my general ignorance and/or incompetence. This evenin=
g I finished mounting the right side front hub with all new parts. I =
thought I had done a nice job. No lateral play in the hub. Turn=
s easily without binding. The correct amount of shims after much tria=
l and error. Disc brake conversion was mounted and braided stainless =
steel flex brake lines hooked up at both ends. I have yet to run the =
brake lines. Maybe next. This rant is about the brand new=
Dayton wire wheels. I mounted the wire wheels which have temporary u=
sed tires on them so I can move the car when it is down off the dollies.&nb=
sp; After mounting the wheel I gave the two eared knockoff several pretty g=
ood whacks. Now the moment of truth. I grabbed the wheel at 9 a=
nd 3 o'clock position and pulled straight back and forth. Yay! No pla=
y, but when I rocked the wheel it moved slightly. I thought it was th=
e hub, but looking closely you can see the wire wheel hub rocking back and =
forth in the knockoff! What!?! How hard are you supposed to hit=
those knockoffs?</span><span lang=3DEN-CA><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></di=
v><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-fa=
mily:"Times New Roman",serif'>Mike MacLean</span><span lang=3DEN-CA><o:p></=
o:p></span></p></div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span lang=3DEN-CA> <o:p></o=
:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html=
>=
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