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Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

To: David P <frogeye@porterscustom.com>, "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
From: WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Mar 2020 02:25:12 +0000
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Thread-topic: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
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Since the thermal expansion rates of bronze and iron are so different the b=
ronze guide can be crushed by the iron surrounding it thus causing the valv=
e stem to stick. The solution is to provide extra clearance in the guide, w=
hich kind of negates the benefit of replacing the guides in the first place=
. They do work well in alloy heads though.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of David P <frogey=
e@porterscustom.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2020 2:36:26 PM
To: healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, nearly con=
clusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure of those findin=
gs do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the valves in the guides to as=
certain one of the heads isn't bent and only seals in one particular positi=
on. Second bring the piston to near TDC and push on it to see if it moves l=
aterally more than intact rings would permit. Compare with the other piston=
s. This might indicate a broken or weak ring that doesn't show up under cra=
nking. Lastly, yes a well worn cam lobe would indicate insufficient time fo=
r cylinder filling. You might also look in the radiator for air bubbles whe=
n cranking---another issue for gasket failure. Healey 4cyl  heads are notor=
ious for leaking around the cyl bores esp with a solid copper gasket. There=
 is a gasket outfit in Lubbock TX that can make individual rings, say 0.002=
-0.0025" to place over the gasket to provide extra squish around the bores.=
 PS always check compression with the throttle wide open.  DP

On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
Bronze guides...
https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cy=
linder-heads/

On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <healeys@autox=
This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides being cru=
shed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far the =
more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better. I h=
ave heard though, that they are better, so this is a surprise.
   And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth comb all t=
his weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the valves I am for sure =
going to be checking the piston rings even though the cylinder walls are qu=
ite pristine. The reason? Finding less than stellar workmanship in the prev=
ious work done of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were done =
correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check.  Peace of m=
ind will be well worth it.
Steven

notink@msn.com>> wrote:

Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron he=
ad. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates o=
f the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to stick=
.

Bill Lawrence
BN1 #554
________________________________
sluijs@chello.nl>>
Sent: Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!


Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is appare=
nt leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near the to=
p of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If the bo=
res are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in the g=
uides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is running. =
You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.

If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit ne=
w pistons and rings

Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new 1lt=
r per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after running =
in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the crank case=
 ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of considerable o=
il consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking. Overfilling the=
 sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil will be expelled=
 through the crank case ventilation system

The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super =
smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.

Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end c=
omes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on =
grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check=
 if these are within limits.

Kees Oudesluijs


Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the valves=
 out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning o=
il I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo the ri=
ngs. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides =
pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bi=
t going up and down. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I w=
ill get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super s=
mooth.
   I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block an=
d replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure it'=
s in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
   I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close =
up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in=
 for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
   Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I wi=
ll have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems=
 pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
   Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quit=
e the fun project.
Steven Kingsbury


On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com><mailto=
:ah100register@gmail.com> wrote:

Hank

The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others m=
ight be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking f=
or a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost  clearance. A partially =
seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but i=
t would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any burnin=
g on the working face.

Best regards

et>> wrote:
Hi Steven-good to hear from you!

That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3 a=
nd have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head...es=
pecially if valves and rings checked good.

Also, I don't recommend  NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of carbo=
n on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods bent/br=
oken, problem is in head-block fit.

Regards, Hank Leach



-----------------------------------------

From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
Cc:
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!

Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I h=
ad 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder=
 number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem with I =
flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two e=
xhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine=
. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat =
high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but o=
ther than that and good.
   So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled =
the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out. =
Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than e=
vaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.
   So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even pos=
ition and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick le=
ak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally drain=
ed out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
   I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an =
old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in =
the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me so=
me sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a m=
agnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not =
there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, somethi=
ng would be obvious.
   I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect a=
ll the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perple=
xed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos fo=
r you, maybe you can see something I can't.

[IMG_20200311_143602.jpg]
Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number tw=
o is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
[IMG_20200311_172123.jpg]
And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain o=
ut and just sat there.


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ster@gmail.com



--
Best wishes

John Harper

AHC UK 100 Register Secretary



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e

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js@chello.nl



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roductions@icloud.com

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orterscustom.com



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Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My Wo=
rld go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/<http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/>

--_000_CY4PR07MB343244D6731EBA70F21B73F2A5F80CY4PR07MB3432namp_
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"=
>
</head>
<body>
Since the thermal expansion rates of bronze and iron are so different the b=
ronze guide can be crushed by the iron surrounding it thus causing the valv=
e stem to stick. The solution is to provide extra clearance in the guide, w=
hich kind of negates the benefit
 of replacing the guides in the first place. They do work well in alloy hea=
ds though.<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
BN1 #554
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" st=
yle=3D"font-size:11pt" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;healeys-b=
ounces@autox.team.net&gt; on behalf of David P &lt;frogeye@porterscustom.co=
m&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 14, 2020 2:36:26 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net &lt;healeys@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<p>Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, nearly =
conclusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure of those fin=
dings do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the valves in the guides to=
 ascertain one of the heads isn't
 bent and only seals in one particular position. Second bring the piston to=
 near TDC and push on it to see if it moves laterally more than intact ring=
s would permit. Compare with the other pistons. This might indicate a broke=
n or weak ring that doesn't show
 up under cranking. Lastly, yes a well worn cam lobe would indicate insuffi=
cient time for cylinder filling. You might also look in the radiator for ai=
r bubbles when cranking---another issue for gasket failure. Healey 4cyl&nbs=
p; heads are notorious for leaking around
 the cyl bores esp with a solid copper gasket. There is a gasket outfit in =
Lubbock TX that can make individual rings, say 0.002-0.0025&quot; to place =
over the gasket to provide extra squish around the bores. PS always check c=
ompression with the throttle wide open.&nbsp;
 DP<br>
</p>
<div class=3D"x_moz-cite-prefix">On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote=
:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"auto">Bronze guides...
<div dir=3D"auto"><a href=3D"https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/=
bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/">https://www.netbug.net/blogmich=
ael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/</a><br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"x_gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"x_gmail_attr">On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Stev=
en Kingsbury via Healeys, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>hea=
leys@autox.team.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"x_gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0
          .8ex; border-left:1px #ccc solid; padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides bein=
g crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far=
 the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better=
. I have heard though, that they
 are better, so this is a surprise.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;And yes, I will be checking everything over with a f=
ine tooth comb all this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the v=
alves I am for sure going to be checking the piston rings even though the c=
ylinder walls are quite pristine. The reason? Finding
 less than stellar workmanship in the previous work done of this engine, I =
just don't trust that the rings were done correctly to begin with and since=
 I'm here, I'm going to check.&nbsp; Peace of mind will be well worth it.</=
div>
<div>Steven</div>
<div><br>
On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:yno=
tink@msn.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">ynotink@msn.com</a>&gt; =
wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an ir=
on head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion ra=
tes of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to =
stick.<br>
<br>
Bill Lawrence<br>
BN1 #554<br>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"x_m_982458915621157960divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><span face=3D"C=
alibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt; color:#00000=
0; font-family:Calibri,sans-serif"><b>From:</b> Healeys &lt;<a href=3D"mail=
to:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">hea=
leys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>&gt;
 on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"; =
target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">
healeys@autox.team.net</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; ta=
rget=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!</span>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div>
<p>Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is app=
arent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near the=
 top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If the=
 bores are fine, piston ring wear
 is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in the guides. They need to, they expa=
nd in the guides when the engine is running. You may or may not use cap sea=
ls on the valve guides.
<br>
</p>
<p>If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit=
 new pistons and rings<br>
</p>
<p>Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new =
1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after runni=
ng in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the crank c=
ase ventilation system, when dirty/blocked
 it can be a cause of considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loo=
se most oil leaking. Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumpti=
on as excessive oil will be expelled through the crank case ventilation sys=
tem<br>
</p>
<p>The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be sup=
er smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.</p>
<p>Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom en=
d comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save =
on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and ch=
eck if these are within limits.<br>
</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div>Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the v=
alves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of burn=
ing oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to redo t=
he rings. Fun, but I'm here, so
 why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and replace the=
 ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and down. The h=
ead though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it checked out for=
 cracks and resurface the head to
 make it super smooth.</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons=
 out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the cr=
ank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in th=
ere.&nbsp;</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take =
a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a pr=
oblem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct thi=
s time and then I will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But =
all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as th=
ey happen.</div>
<div>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. T=
his is actually quite the fun project.</div>
<div>Steven Kingsbury</div>
<div>&nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <a href=3D"mailto:ah100register@=
gmail.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">
&lt;ah100register@gmail.com&gt;</a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hank
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The fact that number 2 exhaust valve&nbsp;is not the same colour as th=
e others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth =
checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost&nbsp; clearanc=
e. A partially seized rocker is possible but
 not likely. This may not be the problem but it would not take much effort =
to pull the valve out and check for any burning on the working face.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best regards</div>
</div>
<br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:gradea=
1@charter.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">gradea1@charter.net</a>=
&gt; wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px
                                0.8ex; border-left:1px solid
                                #cccccc; padding-left:1ex">
<div>Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
<p>That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-=
3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped head..=
.especially if valves and rings checked good.</p>
<p>Also, I don't recommend&nbsp; NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause =
of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods=
 bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.</p>
<p>Regards, Hank Leach<br>
<br>
</p>
<div><br>
</div>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: &quot;Steven Kingsbury via Healeys&quot; <br>
To: <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.teamnet"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noref=
errer">healeys@autox.teamnet</a><br>
Cc: <br>
Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!<br>
<br>
<div>
<div style=3D"">Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If y=
ou remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25=
 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a=
 problem with I flipped it over to
 expose the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being=
 a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went t=
o look into the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression p=
istons smooth, number three a bit
 rough on the top, but other than that and good.</div>
<div style=3D"">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;So then I went back to the head, put the =
spark plugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner t=
o see where it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelv=
e hours later, and other than evaporation, no leaks!
 All chambers still even in their fluid retention.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;So then I rotated the crank to get all th=
e pistons to an almost even position and put paint thinner in the cylinders=
 at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder faster than the others =
and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and
 evenly in each cylinder.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking=
 the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who builds his own engines and=
 runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing =
and I'm sure he will give me some sage advice and
 help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying glass an=
d can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there I know. I wa=
s just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something would be obviou=
s.&nbsp;</div>
<div style=3D"">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I am also going to be taking off the tapp=
et cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I can find there=
. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something=
 wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can
 see something I can't.</div>
<div style=3D""><br>
</div>
<div style=3D""><img alt=3D"IMG_20200311_143602.jpg" title=3D"IMG_20200311_=
143602.jpg" style=3D"margin:10px 10px 10px
                                        0px" src=3D"http:///index.php/inbox=
/attachment/filenameOriginal/IMG_20200311_143602.jpg/filenamefs/INBOX37806d=
f7c51cc87def12df6be1eff39641fa0"></div>
<div style=3D"">Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust va=
lve on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visi=
ble damage.</div>
<div style=3D""><img alt=3D"IMG_20200311_172123.jpg" title=3D"IMG_20200311_=
172123.jpg" style=3D"margin:10px 10px 10px
                                        0px" src=3D"http:///index.php/inbox=
/attachment/filenameOriginal/IMG_20200311_172123.jpg/filenamefs/INBOX378063=
dbbf369419c0843730f10637ee2493c"></div>
<div style=3D"">And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. I=
t didn't drain out and just sat there.</div>
</div>
<p><br>
</p>
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<div dir=3D"ltr">Best wishes
<div><br>
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<div>John Harper</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>AHC UK 100 Register Secretary</div>
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<pre class=3D"x_moz-signature" cols=3D"72">--=20
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My Wo=
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