--===============0666759046403899625==
--00000000000035e0c205a0e720fe
Stephen
Just for interest the diesel version of our engine uses bronze valve guides
best regards
On Sun, 15 Mar 2020 at 15:15, Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> Bill,
> From the research I have been doing, I am finding that what you are
> saying here is correct. 0.003 seems to be the preferred clearance in the
> bore for the valve stem. As such I am being torn in a number of ways as to
> what I'm going to do. As I sit right now, I'm going to order the steel
> guides as I have already ordered the manganese-bronze ones, and take them
> to the shop where I'm going to have the work done.
> My final decision might be a coin toss, but more than likely with all
> the information, guidance and remarks I have heard here from fellows on the
> list, the 0.003 bore hasn't caused problems with those using them in cast
> iron heads. And who knows, maybe they will discover some minor cracks in my
> head and then I will have no choice but to go with the aluminum head and my
> worries will be over.
> Bottom line, I can't thank you and others on this list enough for the
> education and guidance I'm getting. Confusion or not, this is still a fun
> experience made all the more so by folks in our community. Thank you all!
> Cheers,
> Steven Kingsbury
>
> On March 14, 2020 at 7:28 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Since the thermal expansion rates of bronze and iron are so different the
> bronze guide can be crushed by the iron surrounding it thus causing the
> valve stem to stick. The solution is to provide extra clearance in the
> guide, which kind of negates the benefit of replacing the guides in the
> first place. They do work well in alloy heads though.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of David P <
> frogeye@porterscustom.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, March 14, 2020 2:36:26 PM
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
>
> Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, nearly
> conclusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure of those
> findings do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the valves in the guides
> to ascertain one of the heads isn't bent and only seals in one particular
> position. Second bring the piston to near TDC and push on it to see if it
> moves laterally more than intact rings would permit. Compare with the other
> pistons. This might indicate a broken or weak ring that doesn't show up
> under cranking. Lastly, yes a well worn cam lobe would indicate
> insufficient time for cylinder filling. You might also look in the radiator
> for air bubbles when cranking---another issue for gasket failure. Healey
> 4cyl heads are notorious for leaking around the cyl bores esp with a solid
> copper gasket. There is a gasket outfit in Lubbock TX that can make
> individual rings, say 0.002-0.0025" to place over the gasket to provide
> extra squish around the bores. PS always check compression with the
> throttle wide open. DP
> On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote:
>
> Bronze guides...
>
> https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/
>
> On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys, <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve guides being
> crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and they are by far
> the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes something better.
> I have heard though, that they are better, so this is a surprise.
> And yes, I will be checking everything over with a fine tooth comb all
> this weekend. With the amount of carbon I found on the valves I am for sure
> going to be checking the piston rings even though the cylinder walls are
> quite pristine. The reason? Finding less than stellar workmanship in the
> previous work done of this engine, I just don't trust that the rings were
> done correctly to begin with and since I'm here, I'm going to check. Peace
> of mind will be well worth it.
> Steven
>
> On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <ynotink@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron
> head. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates
> of the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to
> stick.
>
> Bill Lawrence
> BN1 #554
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Kees
> Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
> *Sent:* Friday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM
> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
>
> Measure the bores in several places first. If no significant wear is
> apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. Also look for ridges near
> the top of the bores. If they are not present, wear is not very likely. If
> the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely. Valves do rock a bit in
> the guides. They need to, they expand in the guides when the engine is
> running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valve guides.
>
> If there is wear in the cylinders however have the block rebored and fit
> new pistons and rings
>
> Burning some oil is nothing to worry about on the old engines. When new
> 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qrt per 500mls) was quite permissible (after
> running in during which oil consumption could be much higher). Check the
> crank case ventilation system, when dirty/blocked it can be a cause of
> considerable oil consumption. Anyway you probably loose most oil leaking.
> Overfilling the sump is another cause of oil consumption as excessive oil
> will be expelled through the crank case ventilation system
>
> The head should be dead straight but the surface does not need to be super
> smooth. In most causes you can see feel the milling marks.
>
> Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice if the bottom end
> comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in time you will save on
> grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in various places and check
> if these are within limits.
>
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healeys:
>
> Latest update, took the head to a friend's machine shop and took the
> valves out. All the intake vales had build up of soft carbon, a sign of
> burning oil I was told and I'm going to have to also pull the pistons to
> redo the rings. Fun, but I'm here, so why not? I'm also going to get new
> valve guides pressed in and replace the ones in the head as the valves seem
> to rock a bit going up and down. The head though is not warped and is
> straight, but I will get it checked out for cracks and resurface the head
> to make it super smooth.
> I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons out of the block
> and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the crank to make sure
> it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when in there.
> I am also going to remove the tappet cover and take a good, hard, close
> up look at all the lifters to make sure that's not a problem. Right now, in
> for a penny, in for a pound. Sterling that is.
> Basically, I'm making sure everything is correct this time and then I
> will have no one but me to blame if it doesn't work. But all in all, it
> seems pretty simple. So stay tuned for further updates as they happen.
> Thanks for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually
> quite the fun project.
> Steven Kingsbury
>
>
> On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <ah100register@gmail.com>
> <ah100register@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hank
>
> The fact that number 2 exhaust valve is not the same colour as the others
> might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It would be worth checking
> for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just lost clearance. A partially
> seized rocker is possible but not likely. This may not be the problem but
> it would not take much effort to pull the valve out and check for any
> burning on the working face.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 at 18:18, <gradea1@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Steven-good to hear from you!
>
> That's a nice test, but I would magnaflux the head for cracks between 2-3
> and have it shaved flat..could be a head gasket leak due to warped
> head...especially if valves and rings checked good.
>
> Also, I don't recommend NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...maybe cause of
> carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or tappet rods
> bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.
>
> Regards, Hank Leach
>
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys"
> To: healeys@autox.teamnet
> Cc:
> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM
> Subject: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!
>
> Okay, here's the latest! I finally got to pull my head If you remember, I
> had 155 lbs of pressure in cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in
> cylinder number two. So with the head off, I was prepared to find a problem
> with I flipped it over to expose the valves, no such luck. Other than
> number two exhaust valve being a bit black, no cracks, nothing stuck and it
> looked fine. So then I went to look into the cylinders themselves, walls
> smooth, flat high compression pistons smooth, number three a bit rough on
> the top, but other than that and good.
> So then I went back to the head, put the spark plugs back in and filled
> the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see where it would leak out.
> Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours later, and other than
> evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in their fluid retention.
> So then I rotated the crank to get all the pistons to an almost even
> position and put paint thinner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick
> leak, not one cylinder faster than the others and all the fluid finally
> drained out smoothly and evenly in each cylinder.
> I'm a bit stumped. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an
> old machinist who builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in
> the 300 mph range. He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me
> some sage advice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a
> magnifying glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not
> there I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference,
> something would be obvious.
> I am also going to be taking off the tappet cover on the side, inspect
> all the lifters and see what I can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit
> perplexed, but I'm not done. I will find something wrong! Here are some
> photos for you, maybe you can see something I can't.
>
> [image: IMG_20200311_143602.jpg]
> Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valve on number
> two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visible damage.
> [image: IMG_20200311_172123.jpg]
> And here's the fluid I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain
> out and just sat there.
>
>
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>
> --
> Best wishes
>
> John Harper
>
> AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My
> World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
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Best wishes
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AHC UK 100 Register Secretary
--00000000000035e0c205a0e720fe
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Stephen<div><br></div><div>Just for interest the diesel=C2=
=A0version of our engine uses bronze valve=C2=A0guides</div><div><br></div>=
<div>best regards</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr=
" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, 15 Mar 2020 at 15:15, Steven Kingsbury via H=
ealeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net=
</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">=
<div><div>Bill,</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0From the research I have been d=
oing, I am finding that what you are saying here is correct. 0.003 seems to=
be the preferred clearance in the bore for the valve stem. As such I am be=
ing torn in a number of ways as to what I'm going to do. As I sit right=
now, I'm going to order the steel guides as I have already ordered the=
manganese-bronze ones, and take them to the shop where I'm going to ha=
ve the work done.</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0My final decision might be a =
coin toss, but more than likely with all the information, guidance and rema=
rks I have heard here from fellows on the list, the 0.003 bore hasn't c=
aused problems with those using them in cast iron heads. And who knows, may=
be they will discover some minor cracks in my head and then I will have no =
choice but to go with the aluminum head and my worries will be over.=C2=A0<=
/div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Bottom line, I can't thank you and others o=
n this list enough for the education and guidance I'm getting. Confusio=
n or not, this is still a fun experience made all the more so by folks in o=
ur community. Thank you all!</div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Steven Kingsbury=
=C2=A0</div><div><br>On March 14, 2020 at 7:28 PM, WILLIAM B LAWRENCE <<=
a href=3D"mailto:ynotink@msn.com"; target=3D"_blank">ynotink@msn.com</a>>=
wrote:<br><br></div><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>Since the thermal =
expansion rates of bronze and iron are so different the bronze guide can be=
crushed by the iron surrounding it thus causing the valve stem to stick. T=
he solution is to provide extra clearance in the guide, which kind of negat=
es the benefit of replacing the guides in the first place. They do work wel=
l in alloy heads though.<br> <br> Bill Lawrence<br> BN1 #554<hr style=3D"di=
splay:inline-block;width:98%"><div id=3D"gmail-m_8141555067682216743divRply=
FwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><span face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:1=
1pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>F=
rom:</b> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"; targ=
et=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of David P &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:frogeye@porterscustom.com"; target=3D"_blank">frogeye@p=
orterscustom.com</a>><br> <b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 14, 2020 2:36:26 =
PM<br> <b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blan=
k">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"=
target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br> <b>Subject:</b> Re: [=
Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!</span><div>=C2=A0</div></div><div><p=
>Steven, this is starting to make us both crazy. You have proved, nearly co=
nclusively that the rings and valves are sealing. To be sure of those findi=
ngs do this. On the offending cylinder rotate the valves in the guides to a=
scertain one of the heads isn't bent and only seals in one particular p=
osition. Second bring the piston to near TDC and push on it to see if it mo=
ves laterally more than intact rings would permit. Compare with the other p=
istons. This might indicate a broken or weak ring that doesn't show up =
under cranking. Lastly, yes a well worn cam lobe would indicate insufficien=
t time for cylinder filling. You might also look in the radiator for air bu=
bbles when cranking---another issue for gasket failure. Healey 4cyl=C2=A0 h=
eads are notorious for leaking around the cyl bores esp with a solid copper=
gasket. There is a gasket outfit in Lubbock TX that can make individual ri=
ngs, say 0.002-0.0025" to place over the gasket to provide extra squis=
h around the bores. PS always check compression with the throttle wide open=
.=C2=A0 DP<br></p><div>On 3/13/2020 5:42 PM, Michael Salter wrote:<br></div=
><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"auto">Bronze guides...<div dir=3D"au=
to"><a href=3D"https://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-=
in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/" target=3D"_blank">https://www.netbug.net/blog=
michael/2007/05/15/bronze-giudes-in-cast-iron-cylinder-heads/</a><br></div>=
</div><br><div><div dir=3D"ltr">On Sat, Mar 14, 2020, 12:17 PM Steven Kings=
bury via Healeys, <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_=
blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote style=3D"=
margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-lef=
t:1ex"><div><div>This is the first I have ever heard about the bronze valve=
guides being crushed. I had always heard they were the better ones and the=
y are by far the more expensive. Not that money and/or expensive makes some=
thing better. I have heard though, that they are better, so this is a surpr=
ise.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0And yes, I will be checking everythi=
ng over with a fine tooth comb all this weekend. With the amount of carbon =
I found on the valves I am for sure going to be checking the piston rings e=
ven though the cylinder walls are quite pristine. The reason? Finding less =
than stellar workmanship in the previous work done of this engine, I just d=
on't trust that the rings were done correctly to begin with and since I=
'm here, I'm going to check.=C2=A0 Peace of mind will be well worth=
it.</div><div>Steven</div><div><br> On March 13, 2020 at 11:47 AM, WILLIAM=
B LAWRENCE <<a href=3D"mailto:ynotink@msn.com"; target=3D"_blank">ynotin=
k@msn.com</a>> wrote:<br> <br></div><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>=
Another consideration is whether you have bronze valve guides in an iron he=
ad. These can cause problems due to the different thermal expansion rates o=
f the materials. The iron can crush the bronze and cause the valve to stick=
.<br> <br> Bill Lawrence<br> BN1 #554<br><hr style=3D"display:inline-block;=
width:98%"><div id=3D"gmail-m_8141555067682216743x_m_982458915621157960divR=
plyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);font-=
family:Calibri,sans-serif"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:heale=
ys-bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net=
</a>> on behalf of Kees Oudesluijs <<a href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@che=
llo.nl" target=3D"_blank">coudesluijs@chello.nl</a>><br> <b>Sent:</b> Fr=
iday, March 13, 2020 8:19:28 AM<br> <b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:healeys@au=
tox.team.net" target=3D"_blank"> healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href=3D"=
mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>=
><br> <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Four cylinder woes, part two!</span>=
<div>=C2=A0</div></div><div><p>Measure the bores in several places first. I=
f no significant wear is apparent leave the pistons and rings well alone. A=
lso look for ridges near the top of the bores. If they are not present, wea=
r is not very likely. If the bores are fine, piston ring wear is not likely=
. Valves do rock a bit in the guides. They need to, they expand in the guid=
es when the engine is running. You may or may not use cap seals on the valv=
e guides. <br></p><p>If there is wear in the cylinders however have the blo=
ck rebored and fit new pistons and rings<br></p><p>Burning some oil is noth=
ing to worry about on the old engines. When new 1ltr per 1000km (about 1 qr=
t per 500mls) was quite permissible (after running in during which oil cons=
umption could be much higher). Check the crank case ventilation system, whe=
n dirty/blocked it can be a cause of considerable oil consumption. Anyway y=
ou probably loose most oil leaking. Overfilling the sump is another cause o=
f oil consumption as excessive oil will be expelled through the crank case =
ventilation system<br></p><p>The head should be dead straight but the surfa=
ce does not need to be super smooth. In most causes you can see feel the mi=
lling marks.</p><p>Replacing the bearing shells and seals is good practice =
if the bottom end comes apart. Does not cost an arm and a leg and if in tim=
e you will save on grinding the crankshaft. Measure the crank pins in vario=
us places and check if these are within limits.<br></p><p>Kees Oudesluijs</=
p><p><br></p><div>Op 13-3-2020 om 00:29 schreef Steven Kingsbury via Healey=
s:<br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>Latest update, took the head to =
a friend's machine shop and took the valves out. All the intake vales h=
ad build up of soft carbon, a sign of burning oil I was told and I'm go=
ing to have to also pull the pistons to redo the rings. Fun, but I'm he=
re, so why not? I'm also going to get new valve guides pressed in and r=
eplace the ones in the head as the valves seem to rock a bit going up and d=
own. The head though is not warped and is straight, but I will get it check=
ed out for cracks and resurface the head to make it super smooth.</div><div=
>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0I'm also going to drop the pan, and push the pistons=
out of the block and replace the rings. And yes, I will plastiguage the cr=
ank to make sure it's in good shape and install new rod bearings when i=
n there.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0I am also going to remove the ta=
ppet cover and take a good, hard, close up look at all the lifters to make =
sure that's not a problem. Right now, in for a penny, in for a pound. S=
terling that is.</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Basically, I'm making sure=
everything is correct this time and then I will have no one but me to blam=
e if it doesn't work. But all in all, it seems pretty simple. So stay t=
uned for further updates as they happen.</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0Thanks=
for all the input, suggestions and guesses. This is actually quite the fun=
project.</div><div>Steven Kingsbury</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0</div><di=
v><br> On March 12, 2020 at 12:38 PM, John Harper <a href=3D"mailto:ah100re=
gister@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank"> <ah100register@gmail.com></a> wr=
ote:<br> <br></div><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div dir=3D"ltr">Han=
k<div><br></div><div>The fact that number 2 exhaust valve=C2=A0is not the s=
ame colour as the others might be a clue. Maybe it is not closing fully? It=
would be worth checking for a stuck valve guide, broken spring or just los=
t=C2=A0 clearance. A partially seized rocker is possible but not likely. Th=
is may not be the problem but it would not take much effort to pull the val=
ve out and check for any burning on the working face.</div><div><br></div><=
div>Best regards</div></div><br><div><div dir=3D"ltr">On Thu, 12 Mar 2020 a=
t 18:18, <<a href=3D"mailto:gradea1@charter.net"; target=3D"_blank">grade=
a1@charter.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px =
0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div>Hi =
Steven-good to hear from you!<p>That's a nice test, but I would magnafl=
ux the head for cracks between 2-3 and have it shaved flat..could be a head=
gasket leak due to warped head...especially if valves and rings checked go=
od.</p><p>Also, I don't recommend=C2=A0 NGK plugs- use Champion N-5...m=
aybe cause of carbon on valves. Unless cam is flat, valve spring broken or =
tappet rods bent/broken, problem is in head-block fit.</p><p>Regards, Hank =
Leach<br> <br></p><div><br></div><p>---------------------------------------=
--</p>From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" <br> To: <a href=3D"ma=
ilto:healeys@autox.teamnet" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.teamnet</a><br>=
Cc: <br> Sent: Thursday March 12 2020 9:40:25AM<br> Subject: [Healeys] Fou=
r cylinder woes, part two!<br> <br><div><div>Okay, here's the latest! I=
finally got to pull my head If you remember, I had 155 lbs of pressure in =
cylinders 1, 3, and 4 and only 25 lbs in cylinder number two. So with the h=
ead off, I was prepared to find a problem with I flipped it over to expose =
the valves, no such luck. Other than number two exhaust valve being a bit b=
lack, no cracks, nothing stuck and it looked fine. So then I went to look i=
nto the cylinders themselves, walls smooth, flat high compression pistons s=
mooth, number three a bit rough on the top, but other than that and good.</=
div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0So then I went back to the head, put the spark p=
lugs back in and filled the combustion chambers with paint thinner to see w=
here it would leak out. Filled each chamber evenly and waited. Twelve hours=
later, and other than evaporation, no leaks! All chambers still even in th=
eir fluid retention.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0So then I rotated th=
e crank to get all the pistons to an almost even position and put paint thi=
nner in the cylinders at the same depth. No quick leak, not one cylinder fa=
ster than the others and all the fluid finally drained out smoothly and eve=
nly in each cylinder.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0I'm a bit stump=
ed. My next step is taking the head to a guy in town, an old machinist who =
builds his own engines and runs his car at Bonneville in the 300 mph range.=
He knows what he's doing and I'm sure he will give me some sage ad=
vice and help. Also as a side note, I went over the head with a magnifying =
glass and can see now cracks, but that doesn't mean they are not there =
I know. I was just thinking with a 100 pound plus difference, something wou=
ld be obvious.=C2=A0</div><div>=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0I am also going to be taki=
ng off the tappet cover on the side, inspect all the lifters and see what I=
can find there. Like I said, I'm a bit perplexed, but I'm not done=
. I will find something wrong! Here are some photos for you, maybe you can =
see something I can't.</div><div><br></div><div><img alt=3D"IMG_2020031=
1_143602.jpg" title=3D"IMG_20200311_143602.jpg" style=3D"margin: 10px 10px =
10px 0px;" src=3D"http:///index.php/inbox/attachment/filenameOriginal/IMG_2=
0200311_143602.jpg/filenamefs/INBOX37806df7c51cc87def12df6be1eff39641fa0"><=
/div><div>Here's the head, upside down and you can see the exhaust valv=
e on number two is blacker than the others, but no cracks, chips, or visibl=
e damage.</div><div><img alt=3D"IMG_20200311_172123.jpg" title=3D"IMG_20200=
311_172123.jpg" style=3D"margin: 10px 10px 10px 0px;" src=3D"http:///index.=
php/inbox/attachment/filenameOriginal/IMG_20200311_172123.jpg/filenamefs/IN=
BOX378063dbbf369419c0843730f10637ee2493c"></div><div>And here's the flu=
id I placed in the combustion chambers. It didn't drain out and just sa=
t there.</div></div><p><br></p></div>______________________________________=
_________<br> Support <a href=3D"http://Team.Net"; target=3D"_blank">Team.Ne=
t</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; target=3D"_blank"> http:/=
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> <br> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys"; target=3D=
"_blank"> http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href=3D"http://autox=
.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank"> http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>=
<br> <a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">Healeys@a=
utox.team.net</a><br> <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/hea=
leys" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><=
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</div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"=
ltr">Best wishes<div><br></div><div>John Harper</div><div><br></div><div>AH=
C UK 100 Register Secretary</div></div></div></div></blockquote></div><br><=
fieldset></fieldset><pre>_______________________________________________
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</pre></blockquote><pre>--=20
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My Wo=
rld go here: <a href=3D"http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/"; target=3D"_blank">WWW.=
PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre></div><div><span>________________________________=
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<br>
</blockquote></div><br clear=3D"all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div dir=3D"ltr"=
class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Best wishes<div><br></div><div>=
John Harper</div><div><br></div><div>AHC UK 100 Register Secretary</div></d=
iv></div>
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