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Indeed copper core leads and unsuppressed caps can cause problems with
modern electronics incl. the car radio. I think that in some countries
they may be illegal because of that as they may also effect gear from
other road users and even houses.
Suppressor caps may help as will capacitors in various strategic places
like dynamo/alternator.
In spite of all that I use them again on my car after I used Lumenition
leads that were specially intended for use with electronic ignition before.
Cell phone, blue tooth and GPS do work perfectly well though.
Kees Oudesluijs
Michael Salter schreef op 4-6-2015 om 14:18:
> Although I use them myself I do have one caution regarding the use of
> solid core ignition wires.
> As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa Newfoundland they can play havoc
> with electronics. We encountered problems with our "wired" intercom
> and Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when we reverted
> to suppressor leads.
> I have also found that my cell phone will not receive messages or even
> do GPS navigation while the engine is running in #174 which has
> completely original 62 year old Lucas ignition components.
> Michael S
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan
> wrote:
>
> Not 100% sure what you mean by â??the advance curves are retainedâ??.
> In the 123 you can choose your advance curve.
>
> And Iâ??m sure one of the built in choice approximates to the original.
>
> And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The
> correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee
> copper wire. Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also carried on
> longer expeditions. Belt and braces!!
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 07:33
> *To:* Simon Lachlan
> *Cc:* Bob Spidell; Healey list
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
> The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are
> retained and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points in
> the boot is easy for a backup. I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep
> a full lucas dizzy with attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just
> in case. Call me strange.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan
> <simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk
>
> Or get a 123Ignition distributor.
>
> Simon
>
> *From:*Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 06:09
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>
> Agree across-the-board. Had same problem with suppressor wires;
> installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or so.
>
>
>
> re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the
> Petronics." Why? Does he recommend blood-letting and trepanning
> for headaches? I know Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but
> disagree with the points recommendation. Name a modern
> manufacturer--they of the 100K mile tuneups--that recommends
> points? Have (probably) 80K miles on Pertronix--with OEM Lucas
> cap and stranded wires--with no ignition issues (save the
> occasional well-known bad rotor). If you like changing points
> every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to every ignition
> problem.
>
> You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one),
> stranded copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor plug
> caps, good plugs, and a quality rotor.
>
> Bob
>
> On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>
> If you are running suppressed modern wires into your standard
> Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the graphite type
> materials they use in these don't like connecting to the screw
> connector in the Lucas cap . You need to use metal core
> wires, such as bumble bee wire.
>
> Also did you check distributor shaft wobble? If your dizzy
> bushes are worn, and you have excessive wobble, you could also
> be having similar problems.
>
> Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the dizzy
> make sure it is all kosher.
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay
>
> Took the BJ8 out today. Changed the plug wire to #6 (there
> was a visible spark last night). The car struggled big time
> Had to change rotors every 3 miles in order to get the car
> home. Driving along and all of a sudden backfire, black smoke,
> nothing. Changed the rotor (it was noticeably hot) and got
> another 2 or 3 miles out of it. Looked tonight in the dark and
> the visible spark from number 6 plug was not there. Talked to
> Jeff with Advanced Distributors and he suggested it was plug
> wires. Strongly suggested I install points instead of the
> Petronics. At his suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on
> the plug wires and they checked out OK. Still wondering if it
> could be bad gas, I did add a product called â??Heat.â?? Supposed
> to absorb any water that may be in the gas tank. Not much
> help, so far.
>
> Iâ??m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from Moss
> Motors to show up to install them. Hope that helps but not
> really convinced itâ??s the solution.
>
> Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?
>
> Price Lindsay
> 67 BJ8
>
>
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> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
> /If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem./
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>
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> Versie: 2015.0.5961 / Virusdatabase: 4355/9939 - datum van uitgifte:
> 06/04/15
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</head>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF" text="#000000">
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Indeed copper core leads and
unsuppressed caps can cause problems with modern electronics incl.
the car radio. I think that in some countries they may be illegal
because of that as they may also effect gear from other road users
and even houses.<br>
Suppressor caps may help as will capacitors in various strategic
places like dynamo/alternator. <br>
In spite of all that I use them again on my car after I used
Lumenition leads that were specially intended for use with
electronic ignition before. <br>
Cell phone, blue tooth and GPS do work perfectly well though. <br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Michael Salter schreef op 4-6-2015 om 14:18:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAB3i7LKpSvE4eRZfjMf3SsX_1F=zUaV1Y6UOap_E_4iA+v67oQ@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default">Although I use them myself I do have
one caution regarding the use of solid core ignition wires.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa
Newfoundland they can play havoc with electronics. We
encountered problems with our "wired" intercom and Terratrip
rally meter which immediately vanished when we reverted to
suppressor leads.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">I have also found that my cell phone
will not receive messages or even do GPS navigation while the
engine is running in #174 which has completely original 62
year old Lucas ignition components.<br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default">Michael S<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon
Lachlan <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk";
target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote">
<div lang="EN-GB">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Not 100% sure what you mean
by â??the advance curves are retainedâ??. In the 123 you
can choose your advance curve.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> And Iâ??m sure one of the
built in choice approximates to the original.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>And yes(!), I too have a
complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The correct rotor
arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee
copper wire. Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also
carried on longer expeditions. Belt and braces!!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Alan Seigrist [mailto:<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";
target="_blank">healey.nut@gmail.com</a>] <br>
<b>Sent:</b> 04 June 2015 07:33<br>
<b>To:</b> Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Bob Spidell; Healey list</span></p>
<div>
<div class="h5"><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div class="h5">
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The advantage with Pertonix
over 123 is the advance curves are retained and
also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points
in the boot is easy for a backup. I have a 123
in my A90 and I keep a full lucas dizzy with
attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just in
case. Call me strange.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42
PM, Simon Lachlan <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk";
target="_blank">simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</a>>
wrote:</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Or get a
123Ignition distributor.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Â </span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Healeys [mailto:<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob Spidell<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 04 June 2015 06:09<br>
<b>To:</b> <a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys]
Missing under Load</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Agree
across-the-board.  Had same problem with
suppressor wires; installed copper
stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles
or so.</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
re: "Strongly suggested I install
points instead of the Petronics."Â Â
Why? Does he recommend blood-letting
and trepanning for headaches? I know
Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but
disagree with the points
recommendation. Name a modern
manufacturer--they of the 100K mile
tuneups--that recommends points? Have
(probably) 80K miles on
Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and
stranded wires--with no ignition
issues (save the occasional well-known
bad rotor). If you like changing
points every 5K miles, fine, but it's
not the solution to every ignition
problem.<br>
<br>
You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap
(if you can find one), stranded copper
wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas
suppressor plug caps, good plugs, and
a quality rotor.<br>
<br>
Bob</p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On 6/3/2015 6:33
PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">If you are
running suppressed modern wires
into your standard Lucas cap, you
can have huge problems, as the
graphite type materials they use
in these don't like connecting to
the screw connector in the Lucas
cap . You need to use metal core
wires, such as bumble bee wire. </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Also did you
check distributor shaft wobble?Â
If your dizzy bushes are worn,
and you have excessive wobble,
you could also be having similar
problems.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Lastly, check
internal wires/insulating
washers in the dizzy make sure
it is all kosher.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Thu, Jun
4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price
Lindsay <<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:050.rpl@gmail.com";
target="_blank">050.rpl@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Took the BJ8
out today. Changed the plug
wire to #6 (there was a visible
spark last night). The car
struggled big time Had to
change rotors every 3 miles in
order to get the car home.Â
Driving along and all of a
sudden backfire, black smoke,
nothing. Changed the rotor (it
was noticeably hot) and got
another 2 or 3 miles out of it.Â
Looked tonight in the dark and
the visible spark from number 6
plug was not there. Talked to
Jeff with Advanced Distributors
and he suggested it was plug
wires. Strongly suggested I
install points instead of the
Petronics. At his suggestion, I
checked the ohm reading on the
plug wires and they checked out
OK. Still wondering if it could
be bad gas, I did add a product
called â??Heat.â?? Supposed to
absorb any water that may be in
the gas tank. Not much help, so
far.<br>
<br>
Iâ??m waiting for the plug wires
and distributor cap from Moss
Motors to show up to install
them. Hope that helps but not
really convinced itâ??s the
solution.<br>
<br>
Do you guys have any words of
wisdom for me?<br>
<br>
Price Lindsay<br>
67 BJ8</p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
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<p class="MsoNormal">Â </p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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</blockquote>
</div>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
<div class="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>
<div dir="ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you've got an electrical problem.</span></i><br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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