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You must not use steel core wires with a Pertronix ignition. It can =
cause intermittent miss fires in ignition. You will need to install a =
TR6 distributor car and carbon wires.
David Nock
healeydoc@sbcglobal.net
209 948 8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
From: Michael Oritt=20
Sent: Thursday, June 04, 2015 6:57 AM
To: Oudesluys=20
Cc: Austin Healey=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
Kees--
No doubt you are right.=20
Now if I can just figure out a way to shut down the ignition systems of =
the other cars with which I am racing I will be a consistent winner!
Best--Michael Oritt
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:50 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
I would not be surprised at all if ECU's from nearby modern cars can =
be affected.
Kees Oudesluijs
Michael Oritt schreef op 4-6-2015 om 15:37:
What Michael says is true.
Here's another one that happened with my Elva Courier race car: =
Once while getting ready for a race weekend I switched distributor caps =
from one that had suppression leads to another that solid core wires. =
As soon as I started the engine the electro-magnetic field managed to =
turn my video cam, which was hard-wired into the car's 12VDC, off and on =
randomly. =20
As an experiment I powered the cam from a separate battery and even =
though it was about 10 feet from the car with no wires whatsoever =
connecting it to the car the electromagnetic field created by the =
ignition system still took control of the cam. =20
As soon as I switched back to suppression leads the issue went away.
Best--Michael Oritt
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Michael Salter =
<michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
Although I use them myself I do have one caution regarding the use =
of solid core ignition wires.
As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa Newfoundland they can play =
havoc with electronics. We encountered problems with our "wired" =
intercom and Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when we =
reverted to suppressor leads.
I have also found that my cell phone will not receive messages or =
even do GPS navigation while the engine is running in #174 which has =
completely original 62 year old Lucas ignition components.
Michael S
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan =
<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
Not 100% sure what you mean by =E2=80=9Cthe advance curves are =
retained=E2=80=9D. In the 123 you can choose your advance curve.
And I=E2=80=99m sure one of the built in choice approximates to =
the original.
And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The =
correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee copper =
wire. Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also carried on longer =
expeditions. Belt and braces!!
Simon
From: Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com]=20
Sent: 04 June 2015 07:33
To: Simon Lachlan
Cc: Bob Spidell; Healey list
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are =
retained and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points in the boot =
is easy for a backup. I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full lucas =
dizzy with attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just in case. Call me =
strange.
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan =
<simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
Or get a 123Ignition distributor.
Simon
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf =
Of Bob Spidell
Sent: 04 June 2015 06:09
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
Agree across-the-board. Had same problem with suppressor =
wires; installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or =
so.
re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the =
Petronics." Why? Does he recommend blood-letting and trepanning for =
headaches? I know Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but disagree with the =
points recommendation. Name a modern manufacturer--they of the 100K =
mile tuneups--that recommends points? Have (probably) 80K miles on =
Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no ignition =
issues (save the occasional well-known bad rotor). If you like changing =
points every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to every ignition =
problem.
You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one), =
stranded copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor plug caps, =
good plugs, and a quality rotor.
Bob
On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
If you are running suppressed modern wires into your standard =
Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the graphite type materials =
they use in these don't like connecting to the screw connector in the =
Lucas cap . You need to use metal core wires, such as bumble bee wire.=20
Also did you check distributor shaft wobble? If your dizzy =
bushes are worn, and you have excessive wobble, you could also be having =
similar problems.
Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the dizzy =
make sure it is all kosher.
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay =
<050.rpl@gmail.com> wrote:
Took the BJ8 out today. Changed the plug wire to #6 (there =
was a visible spark last night). The car struggled big time Had to =
change rotors every 3 miles in order to get the car home. Driving along =
and all of a sudden backfire, black smoke, nothing. Changed the rotor =
(it was noticeably hot) and got another 2 or 3 miles out of it. Looked =
tonight in the dark and the visible spark from number 6 plug was not =
there. Talked to Jeff with Advanced Distributors and he suggested it =
was plug wires. Strongly suggested I install points instead of the =
Petronics. At his suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on the plug =
wires and they checked out OK. Still wondering if it could be bad gas, =
I did add a product called =E2=80=9CHeat.=E2=80=9D Supposed to absorb =
any water that may be in the gas tank. Not much help, so far.
I=E2=80=99m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap =
from Moss Motors to show up to install them. Hope that helps but not =
really convinced it=E2=80=99s the solution.
Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?
Price Lindsay
67 BJ8
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--=20
If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical =
problem.
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<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>You must not use steel core wires with a Pertronix ignition. It can =
cause=20
intermittent miss fires in ignition. You will need to install a TR6 =
distributor=20
car and carbon wires.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: =
#000000">David=20
Nock<BR>healeydoc@sbcglobal.net<BR>209 948=20
8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A =
title=3Dmichael.oritt@gmail.com=20
href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";>Michael Oritt</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, June 04, 2015 6:57 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dcoudesluijs@chello.nl=20
href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl";>Oudesluys</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=3Dhealeys@autox.team.net=20
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>Austin Healey</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">Kees--</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff"> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">No doubt you are =
right. </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff"> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">Now if I can just =
figure out a=20
way to shut down the ignition systems of the other cars with which I am =
racing I=20
will be a consistent winner!</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff"> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">Best--Michael =
Oritt</DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:50 AM, Oudesluys <SPAN =
dir=3Dltr><<A href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"=20
target=3D_blank>coudesluijs@chello.nl</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc =
1px solid">
<DIV text=3D"#000000" bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF">
<DIV>I would not be surprised at all if ECU's from nearby modern cars =
can be=20
affected.<BR>Kees Oudesluijs<BR><BR><BR>Michael Oritt schreef op =
4-6-2015 om=20
15:37:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type=3D"cite">
<DIV>
<DIV class=3Dh5>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>What Michael says is true.</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>Here's another one that happened with my =
Elva=20
Courier race car: Once while getting ready for a race weekend =
I=20
switched distributor caps from one that had suppression leads to =
another=20
that solid core wires. As soon as I started the engine =
the=20
electro-magnetic field managed to turn my video cam, which was =
hard-wired=20
into the car's 12VDC, off and on randomly. </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>As an experiment I powered the cam from a =
separate=20
battery and even though it was about 10 feet from the car with no =
wires=20
whatsoever connecting it to the car the electromagnetic field =
created by the=20
ignition system still took control of the cam. </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>As soon as I switched back to suppression =
leads the=20
issue went away.</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>Best--Michael Oritt</DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Michael =
Salter <SPAN=20
dir=3Dltr><<A href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"=20
target=3D_blank>michaelsalter@gmail.com</A>></SPAN> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>Although I use them myself I do have =
one caution=20
regarding the use of solid core ignition wires.<BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa =
Newfoundland=20
they can play havoc with electronics. We encountered problems with =
our=20
"wired" intercom and Terratrip rally meter which immediately =
vanished when=20
we reverted to suppressor leads.<BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>I have also found that my cell phone =
will not=20
receive messages or even do GPS navigation while the engine is =
running in=20
#174 which has completely original 62 year old Lucas ignition=20
components.<BR></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default>Michael S<BR></DIV></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_extra>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote><SPAN>On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, =
Simon Lachlan=20
<SPAN dir=3Dltr><<A =
href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk"=20
target=3D_blank>simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</A>></SPAN>=20
wrote:<BR></SPAN>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote>
<DIV lang=3DEN-GB>
<DIV><SPAN>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN>Not 100% sure what you mean by =
=E2=80=9Cthe advance=20
curves are retained=E2=80=9D. In the 123 you can choose your =
advance=20
curve.</SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN>And I=E2=80=99m sure one of the built =
in choice=20
approximates to the original.</SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN>And yes(!), I too have a complete =
Lucas dizzie=20
in my boot. The correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug =
caps, bumble=20
bee copper wire. Fitted with a Pertronix. Points also carried on =
longer=20
expeditions. Belt and braces!!</SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN>Simon</SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN></SPAN> </P></SPAN>
<DIV><SPAN>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><B><SPAN lang=3DEN-US>From:</SPAN></B><SPAN =
lang=3DEN-US>=20
Alan Seigrist [mailto:<A href=3D"mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com"=20
target=3D_blank>healey.nut@gmail.com</A>] <BR><B>Sent:</B> 04 =
June 2015=20
07:33<BR><B>To:</B> Simon Lachlan<BR><B>Cc:</B> Bob Spidell; =
Healey=20
list</SPAN></P></SPAN>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Missing under=20
Load</DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal> </P>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the =
advance=20
curves are retained and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping =
points=20
in the boot is easy for a backup. I have a 123 in my A90 =
and I=20
keep a full lucas dizzy with attached cam driveshaft in the =
boot, just=20
in case. Call me strange.</P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal> </P>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon =
Lachlan <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk"=20
target=3D_blank>simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk</A>> wrote:</P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN>Or get a 123Ignition =
distributor.</SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN>Simon</SPAN></P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><SPAN></SPAN> </P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><B><SPAN lang=3DEN-US>From:</SPAN></B><SPAN =
lang=3DEN-US>=20
Healeys [mailto:<A =
href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</A>] <B>On Behalf =
Of=20
</B>Bob Spidell<BR><B>Sent:</B> 04 June 2015 06:09<BR><B>To:</B> =
<A=20
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>healeys@autox.team.net</A><BR><B>Subject:</B> =
Re:=20
[Healeys] Missing under Load</SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal> </P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Agree across-the-board. Had =
same problem=20
with suppressor wires; installed copper stranded wires and no =
problem in=20
60K miles or so.</P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal><BR><BR>re: "Strongly suggested I install =
points=20
instead of the Petronics." Why? Does he =
recommend=20
blood-letting and trepanning for headaches? I know Jeff is =
an=20
acknowledged expert, but disagree with the points =
recommendation. =20
Name a modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile tuneups--that=20
recommends points? Have (probably) 80K miles on =
Pertronix--with=20
OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no ignition issues (save =
the=20
occasional well-known bad rotor). If you like changing =
points=20
every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to every =
ignition=20
problem.<BR><BR>You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can =
find=20
one), stranded copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor =
plug=20
caps, good plugs, and a quality =
rotor.<BR><BR>Bob</P></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist =
wrote:</P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>If you are running suppressed modern =
wires into=20
your standard Lucas cap, you can have huge problems, as the =
graphite=20
type materials they use in these don't like connecting to the =
screw=20
connector in the Lucas cap . You need to use metal core =
wires,=20
such as bumble bee wire. </P>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Also did you check distributor shaft =
wobble? =20
If your dizzy bushes are worn, and you have excessive wobble, =
you=20
could also be having similar problems.</P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Lastly, check internal wires/insulating =
washers in=20
the dizzy make sure it is all kosher.</P></DIV></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal> </P>
<DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price =
Lindsay=20
<<A href=3D"mailto:050.rpl@gmail.com"=20
target=3D_blank>050.rpl@gmail.com</A>> wrote:</P>
<P class=3DMsoNormal>Took the BJ8 out today. Changed the =
plug wire=20
to #6 (there was a visible spark last night). The car =
struggled=20
big time Had to change rotors every 3 miles in order to =
get the=20
car home. Driving along and all of a sudden backfire, =
black=20
smoke, nothing. Changed the rotor (it was noticeably =
hot) and=20
got another 2 or 3 miles out of it. Looked tonight in =
the dark=20
and the visible spark from number 6 plug was not there. =
Talked=20
to Jeff with Advanced Distributors and he suggested it was =
plug=20
wires. Strongly suggested I install points instead of =
the=20
Petronics. At his suggestion, I checked the ohm reading =
on the=20
plug wires and they checked out OK. Still wondering if =
it could=20
be bad gas, I did add a product called =
=E2=80=9CHeat.=E2=80=9D Supposed to=20
absorb any water that may be in the gas tank. Not much =
help, so=20
far.<BR><BR>I=E2=80=99m waiting for the plug wires and =
distributor cap from=20
Moss Motors to show up to install them. Hope that helps =
but not=20
really convinced it=E2=80=99s the solution.<BR><BR>Do you guys =
have any words=20
of wisdom for me?<BR><BR>Price Lindsay<BR>67 BJ8</P></DIV>
<P class=3DMsoNormal> </P></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<P class=3DMsoNormal> </P></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>
<P=20
=
class=3DMsoNormal><BR>_______________________________________________<BR>=
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