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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">JoeB. You have great advise on the dowel-st=
ud upgrade, much more positive clamping. No time this round, engine getting r=
ebuilt for BajaTR3 after LimeRock. Will do both TR4 engine in process and Ba=
jaTR. Thanks<div><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr">=
<br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Apr 9, 2025, at 7:08=E2=80=AFPM, Lyman Sche=
rer <lymanazhd@yahoo.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote=
type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" c=
ontent=3D"text/html; charset=3Dutf-8">Phil=E2=80=A6 pretty sure you are corr=
ect on the mis-match of clamping, headers are a mess, intakes ok. All sealin=
g surfaces are good & flat. Going to start from scratch. Remflex gaskets=
, nice 3/8 shoulder bolts I have, fab new cross clamps, service headers even=
though had no exhaust leaks. Thx for advice!<br id=3D"lineBreakAtBeginningO=
fSignature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><=
blockquote type=3D"cite">On Apr 9, 2025, at 7:46=E2=80=AFAM, Bob Kramer via =
Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote t=
ype=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<div dir=3D"ltr">Getting to the two b=
ottom nuts gets even more difficult when you add a support bracketing t=
o take the place of the OEM bolting of the intake to the exhaust manifo=
ld that we lose when using a header, thus it is easier to get it wrong.</div=
><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=
=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Apr 9, 2025 at 7:48=E2=80=AFAM yellow04 via Fot <=
<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net";>fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><=
/div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;bor=
der-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"font-siz=
e:10pt;font-family:Verdana,Geneva,sans-serif">
<p>My money is on this one... Blowing out the bottom of the intake gaskets m=
eans you didn't get nearly enough pressure (if any) from that pesky lower mo=
unting stud and clamp. I have found if you use anything other than a stock i=
ntake manifold and stock exhaust manifold, you must scrutinize the area wher=
e the clamps will sit to ensure the height is very similar. Or, modify the c=
lamps by welding on something to make sure when the clamp rests on the appro=
priate bits of the intake and exhaust manifold, when the nut is tightened it=
puts equal pressure on both manifolds. Obviously, the mounting face on=
each manifold needs to be flat. Assuming you have everything in order, ther=
e is no reason a stock manifold gasket will not work, I have run them when I=
could not get my hands on the HD gaskets and they worked fine for me. =
</p>
<p>Last thought, the nuts that hold the manifolds on are notorious for loose=
ning up in time, and especially after the first few heat cycles. And with ev=
erything installed, getting to the two bottom nuts can be a pain. But, failu=
re to keep them properly torqued leads to blown out gaskets.</p>
<div id=3D"m_8205082758269726652signature"> </div>
<p><br></p>
<p id=3D"m_8205082758269726652reply-intro">On 2025-04-09 06:55, vfracing--- v=
ia Fot wrote:</p>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" style=3D"padding:0px 0.4em;border-left:2px solid r=
gb(16,16,255);margin:0px">
<div id=3D"m_8205082758269726652replybody1">
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial;font-size:16px">
<div> </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Lyman;</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"> </div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"> another possible cause is a mis match in the thicknes=
ses of the intake and exhaust manifold flanges.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
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