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I ran a steel shim gasket with copper wire ring on the head side, milled the
block for truing and had .006" protrusion. >10.5:1 compression with .125"
milled off the head. No problems after 19 events (at least 20 hours on track)
and 5,500 miles of street driving and club tours. The stock liners were bored
and honed with a torque plate in place. I had expert guidance, thanks Greg,
during this, my first TR motor build.
Dave H.
> On 08/01/2020 8:00 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> The liner protrusion spec I mentioned in my previous email (.003" -
> .005") is right from the TR-4 Factory Workshop Manual. Obviously, this
> implies use of a stock factory head gasket. I used this same spec with the
> factory steel shim gaskets for 24 years in my race engines and never had a
> failure. If manufacturers of other head gaskets recommend a different
> protrusion spec, obviously go with their recommendation.
>
> Jack
>
> On Saturday, August 1, 2020, 10:52:14 AM EDT, yellow04 via Fot
> <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>
> Lots of information being tossed around here, I feel this comment is
> missing...
>
> The good folks that have chimed in here have solved their issue of
> getting the wet liner TR motor head gasket to seal. There are many
> solutions that work, but the important thing to realize is there are
> variables to each solution. It's like each head gasket has it's own
> recipe for success. Choose a head gasket and follow the recipe to the
> letter and your head should seal just fine. Some recipe's are easy,
> others require much more diligence. The crux of the issue is setting the
> liner protrusion to the right height for the gasket being used.
>
> Composite head gaskets will hide a multitude of sins when it comes to
> liner protrusion, but may be hard to find a quality one that matches
> your head, plus in theory they may not last as long and may not be as
> robust.
>
> Solid head gaskets require very tight tolerances on liner protrusion,
> are more sensitive to techniques with sealant, and in my experience can
> be a real pain to get the head off! (Thanks Bill!!!) But when used
> correctly should be more bombproof than composite head gaskets, and you
> can order the exact thickness you desire to meet compression ratio
> requirements.
>
> Bottom line to any new guy... Do not fall into the trap of asking 10
> people what they do, then pick and choose steps from different
> solutions. If you find someone who builds reliable engines, and copy
> their solution to the letter, you stand a good chance of copying their
> results.
>
> Worked for me, just sayin'...
>
> Henry
>
>
> On 2020-07-31 17:27, mleccese1--- via Fot wrote:
> > Phil, Dave,
> >
> > I may have compromised my head gasket last weekend at Lime Rock (Green
> > TR4 #802), can you or someone recommend one that is robust.
> >
> > Thank you
> > Michael L
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>
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>
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<div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;
color: #333333;">
<span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">I ran a steel shim
gasket with copper wire ring on the head side, milled the block for truing and
had .006" protrusion. >10.5:1 compression with .125" milled off the
head. No problems after 19 events (at least 20 hours on track) and 5,500
miles of street driving and club tours. The stock liners were bored and
honed with a torque plate in place. I had expert guidance, thanks Greg,
during this, my first TR motor build. </span>
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif;
color: #333333;">
<span style="font-family: helvetica; font-size: 12pt;">Dave H. </span>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
On 08/01/2020 8:00 AM Jack Wheeler via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;
font-size: 13px;" class="ydp5d3103eyahoo-style-wrap">
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div data-setdir="false" dir="ltr">
The liner protrusion spec I mentioned in my previous email (.003" - .005")
is right from the TR-4 Factory Workshop Manual. Obviously, this implies
use of a stock factory head gasket. I used this same spec with the
factory steel shim gaskets for 24 years in my race engines and never had a
failure. If manufacturers of other head gaskets recommend a different
protrusion spec, obviously go with their recommendation.
</div>
<div data-setdir="false" dir="ltr">
<br>
</div>
<div data-setdir="false" dir="ltr">
Jack
<br>
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class="ydp6cb144f8yahoo_quoted" id="ydp6cb144f8yahoo_quoted_7181514405">
<div style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;
font-size: 13px; color: #26282a;">
<div>
On Saturday, August 1, 2020, 10:52:14 AM EDT, yellow04 via Fot
<fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<br>
</div>
<div>
<div dir="ltr">
Lots of information being tossed around here, I feel this comment is
<br clear="none">missing...
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">The good folks that have chimed in here have solved
their issue of
<br clear="none">getting the wet liner TR motor head gasket to seal.
There are many
<br clear="none">solutions that work, but the important thing to realize
is there are
<br clear="none">variables to each solution. It's like each head gasket
has it's own
<br clear="none">recipe for success. Choose a head gasket and follow the
recipe to the
<br clear="none">letter and your head should seal just fine. Some
recipe's are easy,
<br clear="none">others require much more diligence. The crux of the
issue is setting the
<br clear="none">liner protrusion to the right height for the gasket
being used.
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">Composite head gaskets will hide a multitude of sins
when it comes to
<br clear="none">liner protrusion, but may be hard to find a quality one
that matches
<br clear="none">your head, plus in theory they may not last as long and
may not be as
<br clear="none">robust.
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">Solid head gaskets require very tight tolerances on
liner protrusion,
<br clear="none">are more sensitive to techniques with sealant, and in
my experience can
<br clear="none">be a real pain to get the head off! (Thanks Bill!!!)
But when used
<br clear="none">correctly should be more bombproof than composite head
gaskets, and you
<br clear="none">can order the exact thickness you desire to meet
compression ratio
<br clear="none">requirements.
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">Bottom line to any new guy... Do not fall into the trap
of asking 10
<br clear="none">people what they do, then pick and choose steps from
different
<br clear="none">solutions. If you find someone who builds reliable
engines, and copy
<br clear="none">their solution to the letter, you stand a good chance
of copying their
<br clear="none">results.
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">Worked for me, just sayin'...
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">Henry
<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
<div id="ydp6cb144f8yqtfd33741" class="ydp6cb144f8yqt3941767706">
<br clear="none">On 2020-07-31 17:27, mleccese1--- via Fot wrote:
<br clear="none">> Phil, Dave,
<br clear="none">>
<br clear="none">> I may have compromised my head gasket last
weekend at Lime Rock (Green
<br clear="none">> TR4 #802), can you or someone recommend one that
is robust.
<br clear="none">>
<br clear="none">> Thank you
<br clear="none">> Michael L
<br clear="none">_______________________________________________
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</div>_______________________________________________
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<br>
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