Thanks Chris, I've been using lacquer thinner and a brass gun cleaning brush
on a drill along with dental picks to clean the Loctite out of the threads.
I'll try the gasket remover next time.
Tim
-----Original Message-----
From: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of MadMarx
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 2:32 PM
To: fot@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Fot] Flywheel Bolt Locking Plates
Gasket remover will clean the bolts and holes from old Loctite.
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von WEmery7451@aol.com
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010 18:48
An: jerryvv@roadrunner.com; fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Flywheel Bolt Locking Plates
In a message dated 7/20/10 5:00:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jerryvv@roadrunner.com writes:
<< List, what is the collective wisdom on using the 2 locking plates when
assembling a TR 4 flywheel to the crank? Use them or use Locktite instead
of
them. Both?
>>
Forget the Locktite. It may be OK for the first assembly. If you have to
assemble the components again, it is almost impossible to clean out all of
the old Locktite. You could therefore get some false torque readings. Use
the locking plates, put a drop of mineral oil on the bolt threads, and
torque
to specifications.
There is some evidence that tying the two bolts together with the locking
plates gives a little added strength. You might also want to have two dial
pins made long enough to be flush with the outer surface of the flywheel.
</HTML>
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