I would surely recommend locktite over the plates. After many years running a
Spit in SCCA GP, I also found that drilling for additional dowel pins will
keep
the flywheel on much better. Cheers, Ed.
Ed Diehl
----- Original
Message ----
From: MadMarx <tr4racing@googlemail.com>
To: fot@autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, July 22, 2010 3:32:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Fot] Flywheel Bolt Locking
Plates
Gasket remover will clean the bolts and holes from old Loctite.
-----Urspr|ngliche Nachricht-----
Von: fot-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:fot-bounces@autox.team.net] Im
Auftrag von WEmery7451@aol.com
Gesendet: Donnerstag, 22. Juli 2010 18:48
An: jerryvv@roadrunner.com;
fot@autox.team.net
Betreff: Re: [Fot] Flywheel Bolt Locking Plates
In a
message dated 7/20/10 5:00:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jerryvv@roadrunner.com
writes:
<< List, what is the collective wisdom on using the 2 locking plates
when
assembling a TR 4 flywheel to the crank? Use them or use Locktite instead
of
them. Both?
>>
Forget the Locktite. It may be OK for the first
assembly. If you have to
assemble the components again, it is almost
impossible to clean out all of
the old Locktite. You could therefore get some
false torque readings. Use
the locking plates, put a drop of mineral oil on
the bolt threads, and
torque
to specifications.
There is some evidence that
tying the two bolts together with the locking
plates gives a little added
strength. You might also want to have two dial
pins made long enough to be
flush with the outer surface of the flywheel.
</HTML>
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