Very correct. Keep the flex lines as short as possible.
In addition, even if the braid doesn't fray, it's a wicked good abrasive
in it's own right. Most of mine have a wrap of some sort around 'em.
That wrap gets pilled off and replaced over the winter as part of the
inspection & teardown.
iii
"Michael D. Porter" wrote:
>
> Bob Bownes wrote:
> >
> > I'd second Bill. Replace everything with steel lines, AN fittings and
> > stainless braided. The bulb-type are not designed for repeated
> > assy/disassy.
>
> Uh, just an advisory on the above. Keep the braided lines short, and at
> the hard line-to-flex line points. I work with an engineer who used to
> race Zink F-Vees in Colorado a decade or so ago, and he and his partner
> tried a few SS-braided hoses at the flex points, thought, "hey, this
> works," so they replaced every hard line with braided hose. Guess what?
> First time out, the pedal hit the floor and there were no brakes,
> period. There is some give in the braided lines, just as with other flex
> lines. Try to do the whole car in them and one will be chasing low pedal
> problems forever.
>
> Also, wherever possible, clip the braided lines where any chafing can
> occur. The braid on these lines chafes very easily, particular in areas
> of high vibration, and once the braid frays, the Teflon liner ruptures
> _very easily_. (!)
>
> Cheers, all.
>
> --
> Michael D. Porter
> Roswell, NM (yes, _that_ Roswell)
> [mailto:mporter@zianet.com]
>
> `70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
> `72 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
> `72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
> `64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
> `80 TR7 (3.8 liter Buick-powered)
> `86 Nissan 300ZX (the minimal-maintenance road car)
> `68 VW Type II Camper (Lancia twin-cam powered, but feeling its age....)
>
> Remember: Math and alcohol do not mix... do not drink and derive.
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