Yup. I should have made all that more clear. I've used flex line from the
t to the wheel without problem, but I wouldn't run it from the MC to the
T, for just that reason.
My pedal isn't soft at all, but I used good lines (Earl's). And I both
clip the lines away from any chafe and install a chafe guard (a piece of
plastic tube).
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael D. Porter
To: Bob Bownes
Cc: Bill Babcock; Brad Kahler; fot@autox.team.net
Sent: 5/4/2001 12:37 AM
Subject: Re: brake line question
Bob Bownes wrote:
>
> I'd second Bill. Replace everything with steel lines, AN fittings and
> stainless braided. The bulb-type are not designed for repeated
> assy/disassy.
Uh, just an advisory on the above. Keep the braided lines short, and at
the hard line-to-flex line points. I work with an engineer who used to
race Zink F-Vees in Colorado a decade or so ago, and he and his partner
tried a few SS-braided hoses at the flex points, thought, "hey, this
works," so they replaced every hard line with braided hose. Guess what?
First time out, the pedal hit the floor and there were no brakes,
period. There is some give in the braided lines, just as with other flex
lines. Try to do the whole car in them and one will be chasing low pedal
problems forever.
Also, wherever possible, clip the braided lines where any chafing can
occur. The braid on these lines chafes very easily, particular in areas
of high vibration, and once the braid frays, the Teflon liner ruptures
_very easily_. (!)
Cheers, all.
--
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM (yes, _that_ Roswell)
[mailto:mporter@zianet.com]
`70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
`64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
`80 TR7 (3.8 liter Buick-powered)
`86 Nissan 300ZX (the minimal-maintenance road car)
`68 VW Type II Camper (Lancia twin-cam powered, but feeling its age....)
Remember: Math and alcohol do not mix... do not drink and derive.
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