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I guess this plea for help is sort of like a message in a bottle- I'm not
quite sure who'll get it if anyone does at all. The only thing that confuses me
more than my 1975 Bricklin is this screwed up computer. My name is charles and I
purchased an orange 75 #2857 from the original owner, who lives about a block
and a half away from me in Hobe Sound Fl.
The car is rough with lots of water damage to the interior. The acrylic panels
needed to be bonded , which I have already done. I really do not care about the
fact that the car does not have the original motor. As a matter of fact, I
figured if I got screwed on the car itself, and it was worth only $500 (like I
was told by a Bricklin owner who mysteriously popped up at my front door one
day shortly after the purchase was made), at least I had a motor and tranny I
could get good bucks for! The car is powered by a 1970(?) 351 Cleveland,a very
beefy cam, with the big monster port heads and a 1050cfm holley. I don't Know if
the Bricklins came with the FMX tranny, but that's what I was told and thats
what mine has,and I'm quite curious to know. The motor is fresh(.30 over) with
less than 10k miles on it and the car, 72k.
Now to sum up my major frustrations... the motor screams, leaves like a sling
shot (if the tires don't burn), then a healthy bark from the tires when I shift
second, sometimes breaking the tires a second time! Now here's the catch to this
picture... I'm guaranteed none of the prev. will take place if the vacuum lines
are hooked up to the headlight system. The headlights work in their own sort of
way. They come up immediately upon starting the car and go down after driving a
few miles. At this point, if I step into it, the car bogs, the passenger
headlight comes up. If I really step into it, they both come up (always the
passenger one first) and will not go down by means of the switch (which is new).
At this point I drive the car unhappily with the headlight lines disconnected.
I am also having trouble with the door system which was converted to air, with
an air tank in the back bumper (original?). the vacuum air pump, under the hood
is sending air to the back bumper, but still yet the doors will open by
themselves maybe five times after putting air manually in the bumper. Get the
story?blah, blah, blah...all that stuff. I need help ironing out a few wrinkles.
I am also afraid to order out of the Brickline magazine. The guy who sold me the
car gave me a bunch of old mags. I ran into some canceled checks in one book
from parts that were ordered. These parts are still in the car and look nothing
like the original. The console which is not even close- two of the gauges, same
story. I've run into a few Bricklin guys, who have been a great help- none of
them anywhere close to my area. apparently not enough help for my limited
knowledge of these cars. I guess what I need is for someone who is willing to go
over the air system with me to contact me. Whether it be in the Russian Tundra
or in my locale, any help would be be appreciated.
charlesh@gate.net
(561) 545-9580 Thanks
James A. Isbell wrote:
> >fur although the original buckets are there. A disgruntled employee stole
> >the carbeurator off of it some time ago. It was parked around '90 I think
>
> You got lucky there. You needed to replace it with a Holley anyway....#8-)
>
> >My father did request that I ask if anyone knew of this problem. The car
> >is sheltered, but has to endure the harsh temperatures of the KS seasons.
> >Recently, the passenger side window has fallen (slid down) and were
> >wondering what the possible cause is.
>
> Its easy, just pull the interior pannel and put the glass back into the
> metal clamp that holds it at the bottom. The cloth that wedges the glass in
> the clamp has deteriorated and the clamp sliped off.
> Jim
>
>
> on board 44' ketch "Millennium Falcon"
> "Its the ship that made the Kessel Run in less than twelve
> parsecs."
> Han Solo
>
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