> I was beginning to understand the concept but now I'm confused. is this
> "pushing" technique really for cameras that automatically select shutter
> and/or aperture? if I push the film speed on my K1000, all it does is
> "fool" the built-in light meter. the film will still be underexposed. I
> can achieve the same results by "mis-setting" the shutter and aperture.
All that push processing does, is pretend that you have a film speed other
than what is in the camera. If you need some action shots but only have a
roll of ASA 100 film in your bag, you pop it into the camera and pretend
that it said 400 on it. (set your camera to 400 and use it like you
actually had the right roll of film in your bag)
When you are done, you will have a drastically underexposed roll of film
that would not normally make decent prints. You then need to take it to a
photo lab that knows about push processing and tell them what the film is
and the speed you used when shooting it. They will take that information
and over develop the film. They will develop it so that your underexposed
negatives will be made to look more like ones that were exposed at the right
speed. If you have any pictures that were exposed at the right speed, they
will come out as if they were over exposed.
I have been watching this thread and wondering what decade some of the
people are in. Push processing will not give you the same quality that the
film would do at it's proper speed.
In the days before reasonable high speed films (ASA 100 film was as fast as
you could get and had grain problems at one time), pushing film as a
necessity. If you wanted any shot with action, you needed to take the
fastest film and push it. It was also possible to take the slower film that
had much finer grain and push it to 100 without getting grain as bad as the
100 film.
With the advent of better fast films, there really isn't any need to push
film unless you get caught without the right one on hand.
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